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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130586324390#ht_500wt_949

CA18DET Engine For Sale!!!

Suspected spun bearing..... Has been under a shelf since removed!

No Turbo or manifold.... just what is pictured.

Dust comes free of charge!

Looking for $100......

But you bid now and get bargain!!

__________________________________________

Koni R32 GTST Front and Rear lowered springs and shocks.

(Will get photos asap)

Height adjustable by circlip.

Good condition

$300ono

Cusco R32 GTST Front Coilovers

Good condition

Have changed to BC's.

$300ono

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Bilstein R33 rear shocks

Came with subframe I bought.

Was told by the seller that they were near new.

$150ono

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R33 Rear Diff

Also came with rear subframe.

$150

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More parts to come!!

Pm's Replied!

Hmmmm seems I can't edit my post.... Need to add more parts!

ARC R32 Gtst Airbox!!

No filter.

$250

RB20 engine and manual gearbox

Still in car and about to be removed to make way for an rb25.

Will come with r33 turbo.

$600ono

Rb20 ecu

Will make way for rb25.

$100

Sunroof from r32 type m

Removed to fit roll cage

$150

  • 1 month later...

Willing to swap for gtr injectors and top feed rail. Stock or aftermarket.

But stay tuned as more parts will be listed by the end of the week! Including small size enkei rims, r32 gtr trust exhaust, q45 afm, lots of s13 parts!

  • 9 months later...

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    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
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    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
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