Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

At the moment my car has few mods being as follows:

1. blitz return flow cooler

2. K&N drop in panel filter

3. Excedy HD clutch

4. boosted 1 bar

It also came with an Impul tuned ECU and Nismo VSS muffler.

After searching for what type of exhaust I will need etc, I have decided to change the exhaust system to a 3". However, I want to keep the Nismo muffler, and change the dump/front/cat-back (if that can be done with the VSS).

Does anyone know if the VSS muffler (silent/sports mode) is particularly restrictive? Or whether it would even matter as its at the end of the exhaust?

If people dont know the muffler i'm talking about it can be found here:

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry5322488

and here:

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry2851890

Also, once I have changed the exhaust the car will most likely need a tune. Does anyone know if the Impul chip can be tuned? I am pretty sure the car came with both the chip and muffler from factory.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Edited by O_Sotiris

r u after the sotck look or the just the adjustable valve? if u dnt care abt loosin the stock look jsut get a varex cannon with the adjustable valve or if u want the stock look just take it to an exhaust shop and they will make an adapter for the tip..

i personaly rekon it will be a restrictive due to the 2.5" inlet.. u could get a twin varex tip to look similar aswell.. and even rewire it to the vss switch or just use the remote provided.. the varex is exactly the same system as the nismo one.. hope that helps

Cheers

Herb

Better off with a legal exhaust than one that is illegal (valve based) given you are in Vic.

There are a few 3inch items that do pass EPA for when you get pinned.

You will need a prope tune as well. I feel sorry for your car being forced with that boost on a shit stock dia exhaust, can't be good at all.

I actually feel the jap tuned ECU's can be quite good and wouldnt go as far as to say 'need a proper tune'.

The jap ones are normally done around factory based cars with typical mods such as exhaust cooler and boost. But I am a firm believer you should always run them up on the dyno to make sure they are doing what they hope they are.

The variance in fuel between the two countries CAN throw them off completely and leave you detonating the shit out of your motor. No guarantees unless you get it checked!

Hi im currently running the same nismo vss muffler at the end of a 3 inch pipe with the valve removed.

I have a 3071r with AVO rear housing. plus supporting mods and im achiving 274hp at wheels on 9 psi.

Im yet to turn the boost up.

Thanks for the help/opinions guys.

@GTXR34 & R31NISMOID

I like the idea that the car came from factory with the Nismo muffler and the switch in the cabin is a good talking point! Obviously though if it is doing damage i'm not keeping it on. To tell you the truth I never realised it was only a Nismo muffler. I actually thought it was the whole exhaust which is why I haven't upgraded it.

You will need a prope tune as well. I feel sorry for your car being forced with that boost on a shit stock dia exhaust, can't be good at all.

Can the smaller exhaust really be doing doing damage? Will too much backpressure wreck the turbo?

I'm only asking because the car came like that from Japan. Only modifications I have made are the cooler/intake/clutch.

I actually feel the jap tuned ECU's can be quite good and wouldnt go as far as to say 'need a proper tune'.

The car hasn't detonated in the time (almost 2 years) I have had it. It's actually been running a little bit rich, even with the modifications.

Hi im currently running the same nismo vss muffler at the end of a 3 inch pipe with the valve removed.

Do you need some sort of adapter to go from 3" to 2.5" at the muffler?

I made the whole exhaust myself and did a 3 inch to twin 2.25 to use both imput hole in the muffler.

It was a bit of stuffing round but hasnt hurt the power at this low boost i will find out if it does when i get a final tune done.

I think you'll find the impul ecu cannot be tuned but you may be able to replace the chip - ask someone like Toshi - he may be able to do it but you really want it done in your car not by mail.

But if you can stick it on a dyno after you have made the changes - if you're lucky and afrs and timing are acceptable you won't need a retune at this point.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...