Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rod bolts don't just snap for no reason, you either have to accidentally downshift to 2nd and do more than ~10,000rpm or build issue.

Fixed , i'd guess that having a painted blue block it had a build issue :) . OP what were you doing when it went pop?

Sounds like assembly issue or faulty component then. I guess the previous owner could have overreved it badly and fatigued it and all it needed was a bit more stress to finish it off though.

Guess you will never know the true cause.

Actually it was definitely near redline in 2nd

My boss keeps giving it to me because he told me to lower the boost but i didnt and he thinks thats what made it pop. The studs wouldnt break on a power stroke because all the force would be on the crank would it not ?

Im pretty sure the rod bolts where the cause there both cleanly snapped, if the rod broke first surly the the bottom of the rod would still be bolted to the crank

Are there signs of detonation on the pistons? If not then it had nothing to do with the boost level.

What turbo/boost were you running? Was it tuned for that boost or did you just randomly turn it up without checking it was safe?

No i wont ever know the true cause all illl know is the engine destroyed itself (with my influence), i do give the car a hard time a fiar bit but who doesnt

The previous owner didnt seem like the kind of bloke who would thrash a car but who knows

Edited by Slattery Gts-t

Was running a highflow from MTQ at 15 psi on vortex 98 and there was no sign of detonation, i tune it myself for the time being using a wideband and an emanage blue, WOT is around 11.5 to 12.0:1 AFR and iv pulled a few degrees of timing from the whole map as it has a mines ecu

Edited by Slattery Gts-t
  • 1 month later...

Well havnt i had bad luck after bad luck

I purchased an engine off a member on here for $700 without the turbo, anyway after spending a weekend putting it in and running into a few hicups i was really looking forward to having it going again. I started it up and all seemed good so i took it for a drive and noticed it was blowing smoke and after 100kms it had used over half a litre of oil also oil temps would sit at about 95 degress while i was cruising, i thought the smoke might clear so i drove it around for a few hours covering another 150kms or so and the smoke wouldnt clear and progressively got worse

I kept driving it and about a week or so later i was driving to another town, I was accelerating up a hill then it started missing so i pulled over and it sounded like a wrx and was blowing more smoke than ever so i turned around and took it home. I pulled all the plugs out and number six was missing the electrode, i then went ahead and did a compression test and got 140 psi from 1-5 then come to number 6 and it had 65 angry.gif. I continued driving it to work and back due to it being my only car until it leaked hot oil from somewhere onto a coolant line to the turbo melted through it and made a real mess so its now parked up yet again. A friend of mine generously gave me a fairly decent car for free so i dont have to rely on the skyline as my everyday car

I stupidly forgot to do compressions before i started it but judging from the smoke it had issues from day one, I have since sold one of my bikes to purchase a good engine. I Brought one from a japanese engine imported for $1700 ready to bolt in, it has a factory turbo which i will be using so i can zero out everything on my emanage and run a factory tune.

Lets hope i have more luck with this one!

I didnt really have a choice it was my only car at that point in time plus where i live there is no public transport and it was still running

The way i saw it the engine was a lost cause and if it completely $#!t itself i wouldnt have been worried (I covered 1300Kms on 5 and a half cylinders),

I have the option of stripping it and rebuilding it with forged bits now

Was it a neo for $1700? that is hell steep for an r33 25.

I sold a forged short block 25det for $1k, pistons, bearings, rod bolts etc, almost $4k of parts in it, took almost 4 months to sell it even though it was running. If you haven't picked it up yet keep looking imo and just make sure you do an oil analysis AND a compression test.

Was it a neo for $1700? that is hell steep for an r33 25.

Oh really? I did do some shopping around and it seemed to be around what you pay for one with 3 months warranty, plus its already payed for and on its way

Oh well as long as its good thats all im worried about at this stage

How much timing have u pulled from the mines map using the emanage?

Did u ever check it on a dyno?

Did u use your original injectors or the ones that came with 2nd hand motor?

Did u get them cleaned and flow tested?

Im thinking either a weak cyl 6 injector causing a lean out mixed with detonation in cyl 6 has busted the ring lands.

I recommend running the emanage with a stock ecu rather than the mines or atleast tune it on a dyno.

Also get the injectors cleaned and flow tested

I pulled 3 degrees from the whole map

I didnt have it checked on a dyno as the nearest one is over 250kms away

I used the ones that come with the motor and no i just put the engine in and ran it

I agree it could very well have been a lean out and detonation either way its shagged

The car come with the mines ecu and i didnt get a standard one but im swapping it plus cash my way for a standard one in a few days

If it is a half cut then it is pretty good, but if it is just the block then yeah rip off.

its not a half cut just a complete engine, I dont care if iv been ripped off all im worried about is getting it back on the road with a reliable engine im not going to wait around until i find a good deal to save a few hundred dollers

Prices seemed to range from $1200 to $2500 for a complete engine with warranty so i dont feel iv been ripped off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...