Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

"think this should be here please delete from other forum"

guys just looking for some re a shorance, decided id do a service on the old rb 26 today so went up to the store grabbed oil and filter and what not sure enough dumped oil, changed filter, and fired her up. NO oil pressure only idle for about 10 15 sec. switched off, thought maybe just cause id drained the oil, the pump hadnt picked up yet, fired her up again 10 15 sec couple of short revs 2grand tops, still no oil pressure. shut her off open the door and sure enough the oil filter had blown off! oil absoulutly every where and i am pissed. turns out the filter that was in the box wasnt the filter written on the box. it did tightn up but obviously not enough threads :( so has this caused damage?? ended up putting the original back on and firing up oil pressure straight up and sounds fine but what are the chances??

thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380745-possible-engine-damage/
Share on other sites

Will be fine mate. Might need some degreaser but ;)

well thats good to hear thank you so much. an im looking at maybe one of those 5 litre drums of degreaser just to get started lol, such a mess and now need more oil :(

Did you just buy the filter? Id be ringing the shop straight away advising them of this. Cover your self incase there has been damage

yeah called them, they were like well its on you to check the filter before you put it in. the best they can do is send a claim or some crap to the manufacturer :(

Yeah unfortunately there is no way to tell for certain for anyone here but if you get in contact with WearCheck Australia you can take an oil sample fro your next change and have it tested. If you get high levels of copper or lead showing up, then you know the answer.

The test kit costs about $40

Farout there must of been oil pouring out all over the place, lil tip for next time, leave the drivers sidewindow down, reach in and turn the key from there, that way soon as it starts you don't need to move to realize there's oil pouring out everywhere. That's Gunna b a prick to clean up man.

Farout there must of been oil pouring out all over the place, lil tip for next time, leave the drivers sidewindow down, reach in and turn the key from there, that way soon as it starts you don't need to move to realize there's oil pouring out everywhere. That's Gunna b a prick to clean up man.

^^ this. Saved me when someone told me to use the wrong sized filter on the Stagea, shut it down quicksmart but there was still a good litre of oil on the workshop floor :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...