Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The factory boost gauge on my Rs4-S isn't working. I've taken it to be looked at by a professional and he told me that the MAP sensor was shot (see pic below). Any advice on how I can hold of a replacement would be appreciated.

Also, in my car the climate control and triple gauge cluster are swapped around. From what I've seen, the gauges should be at the top... While the car was being looked at, I asked about swapping the gauges around so that they'd be in the correct spot. I was told that I had the wrong mounting bracket in my car, and the gauges couldn't be moved up a spot because of this. Any takes on the situation?

IMAG0028.jpg

Edited by Marshstag

+1. I did this with mine after Scotty posted the fix originally. Has worked perfectly ever since.

You can probably just invert the din bracket; that's probably how they were moved originally.

Your car didn't roll of the factory floor with the triple gauges or the bracket is from another stag (rsv?). It would have had a double din stereo under the climate control, I had the same problem when I wanted to move my climate control to the middle and put the gauges up top.And you cant just flip the bracket over, wont work you'll have to do some modifiying to move your gauges mate.

Edited by SatchiThaStagea

The sensor is probably faulty due to dry solder joints on the plug. Here is a how to for repair if you have a soldering iron handy.

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry4953193

Sounds good, I'll give that a go on the weekend. Can I assume that it's the same for C34s2?

Your car didn't roll of the factory floor with the triple gauges or the bracket is from another stag (rsv?). It would have had a double din stereo under the climate control, I had the same problem when I wanted to move my climate control to the middle and put the gauges up top.And you cant just flip the bracket over, wont work you'll have to do some modifiying to move your gauges mate.

What did you end up doing?

mine is in a funny order too

i also have funny extra holes drilled in it

must be a jap thing

I'm not sure if it's a Jap thing or a previous owner thing :P

I just made do with what I had and ended up with the climate up top, gauges in the middle and stereo at the bottom.

theres 2 problems with trying to move the climate control,

1: the front of the climate control is a little wider than the bracket so the bracket is cut to accomodate this and;

2: where most things are mounted from the middle (stereos, din pockets ect) the climate contol is mounted from the bottom of the side

look here for my post that shows these probs

  • 4 weeks later...

I just made do with what I had and ended up with the climate up top, gauges in the middle and stereo at the bottom.

theres 2 problems with trying to move the climate control,

1: the front of the climate control is a little wider than the bracket so the bracket is cut to accomodate this and;

2: where most things are mounted from the middle (stereos, din pockets ect) the climate contol is mounted from the bottom of the side

look here for my post that shows these probs

I've had a look at your post and I'm now on the hunt for correct brackets... and I've found the ones below. They appear to be different from the bracket in the pic you posted. Does anyone know if they will be appropriate?

daf680ss-img600x450-1312181089nrcy0y21859.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...