Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Rear Suspension Troubles

slippylotion

By slippylotion,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys

I'm having a bit of trouble with the rear coilovers in my M35.

I have Tanabe sustec coilovers and can't seem to get the rear level. The rear passenger side always sits 7-8mm higher than the drivers side.

Here's what I have tried to fix it.

Both sides set the same height. = out of level

Drivers rear set higher = out of level

Swapped spring assembly side to side = out of level

Passenger set lower = out of level

Loosened all arm joints to rest bush tension =out of level

No matter what I do the passenger always sits 7-8mm higher and its p*ssing me off as I can't work out why.

So, anyone have any ideas what it could be and if you have had this problem or had to adjust one side different to the other to get them level?

And it's creaking badly on that side and again can't seem to stop it.

Thanks guys.

Edited by slippylotion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380886-m35-rear-suspension-troubles/
Share on other sites
jasevr4 Mentor

jasevr4

Posted
Posted

Interesting. If I set the spring at the same height on both sides the passenger side is about 8mm out. I dropped the passenger rear by 8mm and after letting it settle it's still about 3mm higher than the drivers side.

That said, I haven't loosened the arm bolts at all yet so maybe it has something to do with that.

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So yours does the same!

At least I not going mad thinking its just my car. I've almost given up trying to sort it out.

I think the creaking noise I'm getting is from the rear swaybar D mounts. Will pull them out tomorrow and re grease them.

What heights did you run with?

Edited by slippylotion
Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

Check which way the bolts are in. eg doing up one bolt on one side might make the suspension go up as doing it up on the other side might make the suspension go down. Or when you use your spanners you will notice pushing down one side and up on the other.

I have the same problem on my GTR even if I raise the lower side it just raises the other one aswell.

I havent got it sorted yet either. I put it down to a slight bent chassis from going up my steep drive way the same way every time. I need to come in the other way a few times to twist it back.

Just hit a pot hole or bump on the higher side it might raise the strut tower to the same height as both sides which will then lower your height.

slippylotion Mentor

slippylotion

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

Dunc Mentor

Dunc

Posted
Posted

Nice one Paul. No workshop and a lack of confidence from me - I don't think I'll be tackling it myself any time soon. Are you getting it done Dunc?

I think I will eventually, I can get access to a hoist but I lack the confidence for this one so I'll be looking to get a workshop to do it

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Happy to say finally the car sits level and the creak has now gone. I adjusted the passenger side 10mm lower but it still sat higher. I also could not pin point that creak but my suspicions where toward the upper control arm and the sway bar.

So today when I got home I jacked her up yet again ? and it was creaking away if I lifted the hub assm up and down. I then disconnected the sway bar link to check it all out, all looked good so I put it back in. Then took it for a test drive and the creak had gone ? then when I got home the car was sitting level. I don't know how to explain it but both problems have now been sorted by removing that link and refitting it. Not sure if some how it was causing the problem 100% but it seems to have solved it and that's all I care about.

So now onto to fitting the trams shift kit this Friday/Saturday.

So what you're trying to say here... is you need Whiteline sway bars from Dale? :whistling:

No issues with mine and I have the Whiteline front and rear sway bars, Whiteline rear links, and Dale's rear mounts. Works bloody awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...