Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK guys sorry about all the threads :( So i need some Help, Im down too 2 cars that im looking to buy, if anyone has feedback on what they think would be a better car performance wise Comfort wise so on so on would be great to get some other opinions!

http://www.boostclassifieds.com.au/advert/772909-1998-Nissan-Skyline-R33-for-Sale.html

http://www.boostclassifieds.com.au/advert/767537-1994-Nissan-Skyline-R33-Skyline-for-Sale.html

So i know what alot of people think and say its up to the owner but would be interesting to see what other people would choose and for what reason!

Any Questions Will be appreciates Thanks SAU!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380962-ok-final-stretch/
Share on other sites

why was the re car resprayed? why was it rebuilt?

why the new front bar? ask yourself this. If you are still keen, ask him/her this.

Looks to be the type of car that gets molested often, but then again, most skylines look like that. i do personally know of one thats super clean, driven like its a dihatsu and is always garaged thats possibly for sale. Its my bosses wifes car. 33 gts-t M spec with 17x8 and 17x9.5's. standard EVERYTHING else. pm me for more info :)

Cheers, Allan

The White one...

Just cooz I personally like the look of a Series 2 over a Series 1 but is your call...

im with this guy, the red one looks too....well....different. im always weary of a car that has been sprayed, patched or "refreshed". not always a bad thing, but are you willing to spend your money to find out??

im with this guy, the red one looks too....well....different. im always weary of a car that has been sprayed, patched or "refreshed". not always a bad thing, but are you willing to spend your money to find out??

Mmm yeah I understand, well really I want to be able to get in the car and drive it without having to fix anything or have to worry about things constantly

Get both checked out, your comparing a 94 200000+km car with a 98 120000km car. The obvious choice is the 98 looks clean, newer car, less kms. As I said get it checked out by. Decent workshop. Also think resale, Newer car with less kms will always sell quicker over a modded older model with more kms

The rebuilt one is tempting, IF it was done by a workshop I know and trust, there is more value there. That said the white one does have some nice high quality parts has recently had the expensive services done.

Hmm bit of a toss up for me but I would probably go for the red one as it has some big ticket items that the white one does not, Ie the rebuild, the turbo and the computer which would cost you many thousands of dollars to buy and install

I personally would be going for the 1998 40th Anniversary Edition. Going by the description (and the photos) it appears the owner has spared no expense at maintaining the car to a reliable standard. The owner has used quality parts for most upgrades and just having done a major timing belt service, new coil, plugs etc... suggests to me they have taking great pride in their car.

The red one looks nice, very presentable underbonnet layout and has quite a few mods done to it. With what's been installed, it would more than likely be possible to get it tuned for a higher kw output. That being said like others have pointed out, why the rebuild? And I recall seeing this car on here, would be curious to know why the owner would spend $Xxxx on a full re-build then sell it... I think you'd receive more attention from the boys in blue with the red one.

Ultimately it comes down to what YOU are after...

Personally:

1998 - Clean looking, quality parts, well maintained, room for upgrades, newer model and (if genuine) less kms

1994 - Presented nicely for show, possibility of increasing power with additional tune, most mods (including wheels and body kit already done.

Make sure you check log books and service history for both vehicles, and if you can, do a revs check to make sure everythings in order.

My two cents.

I agree that the red one looks like a cop magnet. And when they get you to open that bonnet and see all the blue and all the shiny... whooooo boy... hope you got a spare 15mins or so while they go through everything, then probably defect you for the boost controller.

...bastards :(

I would go for the 1998... The only thing that would make the red one more of a cop magnet would be no wing imo...

With all the shiny shit under the bonnet I wouldn't want to drive it around too often lol

From my experience once an engine has been opened that's when the problems start...I'd steer clear of the red one

The white one looks clean and tastefully modified with quality parts, that would be my pick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...