Jump to content
SAU Community

New Xtreme Clutch In, No Pedal Feel

VLSteve
 Share

Recommended Posts

VLSteve Enthusiast

VLSteve

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all, I've got an RB25DET in my car, and I just replaced the clutch with an xtreme organic HD.

Flywheel was machined, and I also replaced the throwout bearing which came with the kit.

When I put my foot on the clutch pedal theres almost no feeling. Master cylinder adjuster has been turned all the way out.

I've even bled the clutch, but I shouldnt have needed to as I didnt disconnect the hydralic line!

I'm guessing I might have to pull the box back out, but I checked everything when it went together so I dont know what would be wrong?

Looking through the dust boot that sits over the throwout fork, the clip is still sitting over the pivot ball ok.

I even swapped the master and slave from my other car to see if it would make any difference

Any suggestions?

Edited by DasBlitz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381051-new-xtreme-clutch-in-no-pedal-feel/
Share on other sites
turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

By no feeling you mean its a really soft pedal that goes down like there's air in the system or it doesnt feel like your pushing it in? What sort of clutch was in there before?

VLSteve Enthusiast

VLSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can push it in really easy, only feel some pressure when the pedal is just about on the floor.

No air in the system and no leaks.

It previously had the stock standard nissan clutch

VLSteve Enthusiast

VLSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

well it seems i've even been sold the wrong clutch- ended up with one for an RB30E VL / R31

so the throwout bearing or pressure plate are probably wrong size for an rb25det gearbox and thats whats causing my problem

also means ive gotta take the f**ken box out again

Edited by DasBlitz
VLSteve Enthusiast

VLSteve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well thats the only explanation I've got at the moment. I'm going to have to wait until later this week when I get around to pulling the box off again.

xtreme reckon they sent the right clutch to the shop I bought it from, but the part number their website catalogue shows isnt the same as what was given to me...

turboedsloth Grand Master

turboedsloth

Posted
Posted

Bugger that is a frickin pain. I've gotten into the habit now of comparing pressure plate and clutch plate sizes when replacing them. Obviously clutch plates will be different thicknesses but it's easier to pick up the differences when they are side by side.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you notice the difference in the bearings when you changed them? Strange as my freind has a r31 with rb30 and a 25 box using a rb30 clutch kit and its fine. The only difference I would of thought between the kits would be different clutch and pressure size since there flys are diff.And how did the clutch fit if it was for a rb30 flywheel?

Edited by boostn0199
Matty Sherlock Experienced

Matty Sherlock

Posted
Posted

Is it standard slave cylinder? If so i'd say the pedal adjustment is way out. Get it adjusted by a pro to the way you like your pedal feel before you do any(more) damage to your gearbox/flywheel

  • 1 year later...
gold-3lt Enthusiast

gold-3lt

Posted
Posted

Sorry to hijack a thread but i'm having this exact same problem on my vl and need it fixed asap so i have a car again.

Problem with mine is that the clutch wont disengage until the pedal is pushed hard against the floor and even then there is only juuust enough movement to disengage the clutch. My clutch pedal is also adjusted right out and have also swapped master and slave cylinders but that doesnt appear to be the problem. there was also zero air in the system.

Engine is a rb30, gearbox: rb30 na mf5, clutch: brand new rb25det (i think) exedy hd sports tuff single plate (the pink one).

What i decided to do is use the throw out bearing that came with the clutch which is no doubt to suit the r33gtst box and i have used this throw out bearing on the vl carrier rather than the r33 carrier as i am using a vl gearbox with the rb25det clutch.

What i did notice is that the r33 bearing had a taper which located it right centered in the hole in the pressure plate prongs which meant it sat in slightly where as the vl throw out bearing was larger in diametre and maybe slightly in height meaning it would push higher up on the pressure plate prongs and would still end up centred as the shaft would locate into the clutch hub and spigot bush. I also noticed that the r33 carrier is definately a different height to the vl although they look identical.

So anyway what i'm thinking is that the rb25det throw out bearing on the vl carrier doesnt have enough throw to disengage properly. and also the r33 TO bearing sitting right in the centre of the pressure plate may mean it needs more throw to flex the pressure plate than the vl TO bearing that sits higher up.

Anyway i'm taking the box out again and i'm pretty annoyed with myself so i want to get this right.

I'm planning on now using the vl throw out bearing on the vl carrier in the vl gearbox and hope that will fix my problem as everything will be as per factory specs except the clutch, which looks identical to the old one that was in the rb30 box and is the exact same diametre.

So what are everyones thoughts and as to what the problem could be? I would appreciate any help i can get.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I always thought R31/32/33 clutch plates, pressure plates, and throw bearings were interchangeable. Saying that I am using a clutch made for a 300ZX in my current R33.

Dumb question, but did you put the fork in properly (I think it's called that, the fork that holds the bearing and comes out of the gearbox for the slave to push)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...