Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I finally got my R32 4door on the road after about eight months of it being "defected"

Gave it a service myself, oil, gearbox oil, coolant, brake fluid etc... before I took it out on the weekend for a run to see what it would be like.

So after about 200 ks of nanny driving, everything being fine and checking oil/coolant, I decided to give it a bit of hell. lol rb20de so not very fast just noisy....

seemed to be fine, ran well, didn't even move the temp gauge at all.

but now after checking the coolant it was pressurising and sending most of the coolant into the overflow bottle. also the idle became a but rough. So pretty much yeah the head gasket is most probably farked.

Anyway. was thinking replace the head gasket and get the head shaved to up compression and do some mild porting work on the head myself. also get some second hand gtr cams (correct me if im wrong but They just drop in yes?)

Im not looking for massive gains but just wanna see what i could get out my little 20 with just these things.

And a question about the tune, would it be a good idea to get a tune done or will the stock ecu just handle these mods?

Any Criticism or advice appreciated, as long as it isn't the usual... Get a turbo motor lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381209-good-idea-or-waste-of-money/
Share on other sites

GTR cams dont drop in as they have solid lifters and you have hydraulic

Sure shave the head, dont touch the ports unless you know what you are doing or you will go backwards

all up, you will gain maybe 5hp from the slight increase in compression..

Save your money for the head work and get a Nistune board and a tune

Wouldn't waste my time with a 20DE to be honest, get the surfaces machined flat and put the head back on. Too much money wasted for no end result IMO. If you wanted an NA Nissan that performs well, you got the wrong car lol.

Edited by Super Drager

Are you sure the head gasket is the problem? ie. oil/water mixing and poor performance.

Issue could be something else and an easier/cheaper fix.

If you have to go to all the hassle and labour of changing the head gasket (I imagine you would maybe change the timing belt, tensioners and water pump while you are at it), it's better to just get a good RB25DE as a direct swap - they can be had for cheap or buy an RB25DEt if you have a bit more coin to spend.

i would check your AAC valve if the idle is rough as it is most likley gumed up with carbon. Its very simple to do just go to the DIY section in the forums and look for the thread to walk you through it. There are other threads on how to get the most out of your car just by tweaking and cleaning other things.

Yeah I like the idea of the 25de or 20det. But turns out it may have been just an air lock in the coolant up neer the bleed screw thingo, so got that out and hasn't done the pressurising thing just sitting in the driveway idling, will take it for a drive on sun to see if its all good. Bit off topic but what would you choose between a 20det or 25de. considering that i would rather an NA motor, but have driven a few 20det with the usual mods, Exhaust, FMIC, and VG30 turbo and i liked that but yeah id rather the NA but obviously not as powerful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...