Where Is The Vac Line Restictor Vvv

[pipster11]

Hey Guys

Just wondering which line the supposed restictor is for the stock boost system?

I remember reading someone soldered something up and re-drilled it to a larger size so it bleeds off more air

I had a look and was suspecting it to be in the brass F shaped connector but it wasn't, and i couldn't feel any lumps and bumps in the other lines

if i can bleed some more air off i'll be able to keep 5psi low boost and move the 7 psi high boost towards 10

[QWK32]

can't remember where it was but yellow markings/dots/bands on the vac lines indicating the restrictor location rings a bell, i also think there was more than one, maybe, lol

[rasored]

Can confirm that restrictors are in tubes and marked with a yellow band or dot on the pipe , that`s on a series 1 Stagea , is also used to mark pipes on a 32 GTR - so should be the same for a series 2 Stagea , but , the boost controller and pipes are not your only restriction ! , your actuator is only capable of 10psi ( again series 1 information and so presuming same as series 2 Stagea ) so an adjustable actuator is needed . you may need a fuel cut defender as well , as when the boost goes up so dose fuel consumption and the standard fuel pressure regulator cuts of via a signal to the ECU as it dose not recognise the signal and higher flow of fuel - this results in the engine cutting/stalling and detonation of middle piston rings ... !! .. I HAVE JUST DONE THIS SO KNOW THE PIT FALLS !! Now need a new engine !!!

To be honest the best route is a one hit assault on your wallet and Garage = ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator .... Done !! .. Sort of !

The Mines ECU fitted to another Stagea was the Dogs bollox , made a huge power difference and ran as smooth and economical as standard . You can spend a fortune adapting and upgrading and actually make it worse !!

ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator ... have a think about it

[pipster11]

Can confirm that restrictors are in tubes and marked with a yellow band or dot on the pipe , that`s on a series 1 Stagea , is also used to mark pipes on a 32 GTR - so should be the same for a series 2 Stagea , but , the boost controller and pipes are not your only restriction ! , your actuator is only capable of 10psi ( again series 1 information and so presuming same as series 2 Stagea ) so an adjustable actuator is needed . you may need a fuel cut defender as well , as when the boost goes up so dose fuel consumption and the standard fuel pressure regulator cuts of via a signal to the ECU as it dose not recognise the signal and higher flow of fuel - this results in the engine cutting/stalling and detonation of middle piston rings ... !! .. I HAVE JUST DONE THIS SO KNOW THE PIT FALLS !! Now need a new engine !!!

To be honest the best route is a one hit assault on your wallet and Garage = ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator .... Done !! .. Sort of !

The Mines ECU fitted to another Stagea was the Dogs bollox , made a huge power difference and ran as smooth and economical as standard . You can spend a fortune adapting and upgrading and actually make it worse !!

ECU upgrade , aftermarket boost controller , adjustable actuator ... have a think about it

thanks for you help mate

just to point you in the right direction with the fuel cut stuff

more boost = more air flow, if you max out the AFM or what the ecu sees as acceptable it will put you into the R&R section of the map (rich and retard)

if you go high enough you will hit fuel cut, this is still done by the ecu and it just turns the injectors off

the fuel regulator just keeps the pressure difference between the fuel rail and plenum the same (add 7psi of boost to the plenum, the regulator adds 7psi to the fuel rail)

mines ecu's are also tuned for jap fuels (about 100 ron normally), they are also uber rich but you get the goodness of speed limiter removed and usually good for much more boost

they are also normally done to individual cars so its pretty hit and miss, you obviously got one for a car with similar mods to yours

thanks for the info, don't take my rant the wrong way, i just hate seeing wrong infos on the interwebs

Cheers, Tom

[KiwiRS4T]

When you find the restrictor it is not just a case of drilling it out (you may not have to drill it out at all). I think (its a few years ago now) the restrictor is in the supply not the bleed line. The cheapest reliable way to get your dual boost is with a Jaycar ebc. The best way is to get a Link or Vipec ecu!

[pipster11]

yeah i played around a bit yesterday

drilled them out, filled them back up with solder and drilled them smaller

all in all, not much of a change (drilling them out means that the bleed solenoid can't bleed off enough air, lol)

with smaller holes i was able to get about 8psi

maybe i will install my jaycar ebc after all