Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

This weekend I want to install my reverse camera to the M35. Im going to connect it into the av input on the Commsman tv tuner but wanted to know the best way to switch to the av input when I select reverse. I read somewhere about the C1 terminal inside the jdm tuner but not sure how it needs to be wired and exactly how it works.

I want the reverse camera to automatically be viewed on the factory screen when ever reverse is selected and then back to what the last input was. Is this possible and if so how do I need to wire it all up?

Thanks guys

Edited by slippylotion

Follow these steps:

1. connect the camera power to the reverse lights

2. run the 12V from the reverse lights to a relay (other side to earth)

3. run the 12V from the reverse lights to the yellow wire on the tuner power connector

4. the switched circuit of the relay has an earth one side & the other side is soldered onto C1 terminal inside the OEM tuner

When you select reverse the lights power up the camera, switch the tuner to the aux input (camera) & activate the relay to put an earth on the contact to immediately switch your screen to display the reverse camera picture. Easy!

But will that force the screen to show that input when I select reverse and not have to flick another switch to then revert back to previous input?

Even if Im listening to a cd will it automatically switch and show up on the screen then revert back to cd without me selecting anything?

No it wont force the screen

If your in tv mode on the screen you wont need to press anything. Shorting the C1 to ground does the same thing as pressing the TV button on the dash. You will need the C1 and relay if you want it fully automated. I just leave mine in TV mode

Its a bitch thats why I would go wireless. I went under the roof trim to get into the rubber tube to the tailgate then under the rubber that goes around rear window there is a small gap under neath it. Then down to the side then your in.

Hey Brad

Yeah I can see now that wireless would have better, just didn't know its all sealed up pinch.gif

I pulled all the trims off and can get to the wiring loom grommets going into the top of the hatch. I just can't work out how to chase the wires down that wiring grommet into the frame and down behind the number plate.

I just need to feed 1 x video RCA

Edited by slippylotion

To get to the number plate take out one of the number plate lights and file a slot in one corner near the back and put back in to see if there is enough room for the thin wire to go through(not RCA size) If you cant see through the hole then file a bit more out.

Poke a piece of wire through with the end turned over and pinched. So there is no sharp edges then poke it through the rubber and tape the rca to it. Put lots of tape to taper the plug down to wire size. Then lube up and wiggle it through. I think I came out the side of tube at the end and then went around the rubber seal

There is a small gap under the rubber boot seal between the outside body and the trim

Ill have a look if your still stuck.

Putting the camera above the number plate is still the best spot. I couldnt think of anywhere else on the back to go.

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

Edited by slippylotion

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

What was the camera that you used designed for? (what car model)

Cheers

ANdy

Its for an X trail. I made a 1.6mm thick ally plate the same size as the factory number plate light and fit the camera into that. Nice and easy, took about 15mins to make it.

Cool, Thanks.

After all that I hope you have a NTSC camera. Have you tried everything first?

Yeah I was on to that when I bought it. Its the NTSC version, sell both NTSC and PAL, you tell them what you want. I hooked it up when I got it for a quick test and works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...