Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

This weekend I want to install my reverse camera to the M35. Im going to connect it into the av input on the Commsman tv tuner but wanted to know the best way to switch to the av input when I select reverse. I read somewhere about the C1 terminal inside the jdm tuner but not sure how it needs to be wired and exactly how it works.

I want the reverse camera to automatically be viewed on the factory screen when ever reverse is selected and then back to what the last input was. Is this possible and if so how do I need to wire it all up?

Thanks guys

Edited by slippylotion

Follow these steps:

1. connect the camera power to the reverse lights

2. run the 12V from the reverse lights to a relay (other side to earth)

3. run the 12V from the reverse lights to the yellow wire on the tuner power connector

4. the switched circuit of the relay has an earth one side & the other side is soldered onto C1 terminal inside the OEM tuner

When you select reverse the lights power up the camera, switch the tuner to the aux input (camera) & activate the relay to put an earth on the contact to immediately switch your screen to display the reverse camera picture. Easy!

But will that force the screen to show that input when I select reverse and not have to flick another switch to then revert back to previous input?

Even if Im listening to a cd will it automatically switch and show up on the screen then revert back to cd without me selecting anything?

No it wont force the screen

If your in tv mode on the screen you wont need to press anything. Shorting the C1 to ground does the same thing as pressing the TV button on the dash. You will need the C1 and relay if you want it fully automated. I just leave mine in TV mode

Its a bitch thats why I would go wireless. I went under the roof trim to get into the rubber tube to the tailgate then under the rubber that goes around rear window there is a small gap under neath it. Then down to the side then your in.

Hey Brad

Yeah I can see now that wireless would have better, just didn't know its all sealed up pinch.gif

I pulled all the trims off and can get to the wiring loom grommets going into the top of the hatch. I just can't work out how to chase the wires down that wiring grommet into the frame and down behind the number plate.

I just need to feed 1 x video RCA

Edited by slippylotion

To get to the number plate take out one of the number plate lights and file a slot in one corner near the back and put back in to see if there is enough room for the thin wire to go through(not RCA size) If you cant see through the hole then file a bit more out.

Poke a piece of wire through with the end turned over and pinched. So there is no sharp edges then poke it through the rubber and tape the rca to it. Put lots of tape to taper the plug down to wire size. Then lube up and wiggle it through. I think I came out the side of tube at the end and then went around the rubber seal

There is a small gap under the rubber boot seal between the outside body and the trim

Ill have a look if your still stuck.

Putting the camera above the number plate is still the best spot. I couldnt think of anywhere else on the back to go.

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

Edited by slippylotion
  On 28/10/2011 at 10:22 AM, slippylotion said:

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

What was the camera that you used designed for? (what car model)

Cheers

ANdy

  On 28/10/2011 at 11:09 AM, slippylotion said:

Its for an X trail. I made a 1.6mm thick ally plate the same size as the factory number plate light and fit the camera into that. Nice and easy, took about 15mins to make it.

Cool, Thanks.

  On 28/10/2011 at 11:18 AM, ducati02 said:

After all that I hope you have a NTSC camera. Have you tried everything first?

Yeah I was on to that when I bought it. Its the NTSC version, sell both NTSC and PAL, you tell them what you want. I hooked it up when I got it for a quick test and works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...