Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

This weekend I want to install my reverse camera to the M35. Im going to connect it into the av input on the Commsman tv tuner but wanted to know the best way to switch to the av input when I select reverse. I read somewhere about the C1 terminal inside the jdm tuner but not sure how it needs to be wired and exactly how it works.

I want the reverse camera to automatically be viewed on the factory screen when ever reverse is selected and then back to what the last input was. Is this possible and if so how do I need to wire it all up?

Thanks guys

Edited by slippylotion

Follow these steps:

1. connect the camera power to the reverse lights

2. run the 12V from the reverse lights to a relay (other side to earth)

3. run the 12V from the reverse lights to the yellow wire on the tuner power connector

4. the switched circuit of the relay has an earth one side & the other side is soldered onto C1 terminal inside the OEM tuner

When you select reverse the lights power up the camera, switch the tuner to the aux input (camera) & activate the relay to put an earth on the contact to immediately switch your screen to display the reverse camera picture. Easy!

But will that force the screen to show that input when I select reverse and not have to flick another switch to then revert back to previous input?

Even if Im listening to a cd will it automatically switch and show up on the screen then revert back to cd without me selecting anything?

No it wont force the screen

If your in tv mode on the screen you wont need to press anything. Shorting the C1 to ground does the same thing as pressing the TV button on the dash. You will need the C1 and relay if you want it fully automated. I just leave mine in TV mode

Its a bitch thats why I would go wireless. I went under the roof trim to get into the rubber tube to the tailgate then under the rubber that goes around rear window there is a small gap under neath it. Then down to the side then your in.

Hey Brad

Yeah I can see now that wireless would have better, just didn't know its all sealed up pinch.gif

I pulled all the trims off and can get to the wiring loom grommets going into the top of the hatch. I just can't work out how to chase the wires down that wiring grommet into the frame and down behind the number plate.

I just need to feed 1 x video RCA

Edited by slippylotion

To get to the number plate take out one of the number plate lights and file a slot in one corner near the back and put back in to see if there is enough room for the thin wire to go through(not RCA size) If you cant see through the hole then file a bit more out.

Poke a piece of wire through with the end turned over and pinched. So there is no sharp edges then poke it through the rubber and tape the rca to it. Put lots of tape to taper the plug down to wire size. Then lube up and wiggle it through. I think I came out the side of tube at the end and then went around the rubber seal

There is a small gap under the rubber boot seal between the outside body and the trim

Ill have a look if your still stuck.

Putting the camera above the number plate is still the best spot. I couldnt think of anywhere else on the back to go.

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

Edited by slippylotion

Cheers Brad, Ill have a crack tomorrow and hope for the best.

I mounted the camera this arvo, came out really good.

Yeah I was going to grab that +12v reverse light wire from where it comes back into the cabin under the head lining.

What was the camera that you used designed for? (what car model)

Cheers

ANdy

Its for an X trail. I made a 1.6mm thick ally plate the same size as the factory number plate light and fit the camera into that. Nice and easy, took about 15mins to make it.

Cool, Thanks.

After all that I hope you have a NTSC camera. Have you tried everything first?

Yeah I was on to that when I bought it. Its the NTSC version, sell both NTSC and PAL, you tell them what you want. I hooked it up when I got it for a quick test and works fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...