Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the target now is just reliability, my wife and i have just got some big news so cars are just for transport now. ;) but considering forged pistons are easier to find il probably go that way. whats all this talk of getting forged pistons made to suit factory rings? is there something wrong with the rings they put with forged pistons?

i got a full 100k kit so ive got a new waterpump (old one is 50k old) the oil pump is a concern though. ive read something about n1 pumps being faulty, just a rumour? dont really think i need a tomei pump.

crank collar? whats that about?

Edited by lilcrash
  • Replies 886
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

N1 pump will be fine mate. By all means reuse your water pump if its in good condition.

an aftermarket crank collar machined to suit the crank makes sure the oil pump doesnt shatter at high RPM's, only needed if looking to rev out the engine to redline - if you arnt going to hit the track, drags or bounce off the limiter then it isnt needed, same goes for the Tomei sump baffle kit.

Forged pistons come with rings to suit.

Decent deals on atm for Neo CP pistons/rings - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CP-Pistons-RB25-RB25DET-Neo-R34-ER34-86-5mm-Bore-9-0-Compression-/200683838099?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb9b05a93

ACL bearings - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACL-Race-STD-Rod-Main-Bearings-RB26-RB26DETT-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-GTR-/300639873296?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45ff886910

oh, and congratulations on your 'news' ;)

I'm watching a set of cp pistons in an 86mm size, should I just get an 86.5mm set incase my bores aren't perfectly round?

I plan on replacing everything I can, might as well do it while it's apart. Just had heard recently made n1 pumps were faulty.

Just not looking to replacing my clutch after only 15k stupid excedy garbage. Probably go to npc this time and get a clutch made to suit the engines power.

You have gone from a budget turbo upgrade to a forged rebuild. If you just want reliability now that you have some news, why aren't you just putting a stock motor in and just tuning it to a nice reliable power level and leaving it at that? You will get none of this back when you go to sell it. I hate to be negative but it's still not too late!!

I just see a rebuilt motor as a more reliable option then an unknown km second hand motor. I'm already half way through the rebuild anyway so no point stopping now. Considering how much money I've spent on the car now I dont think I could sell it, at this point il be keeping it until atleast 2019 just to get the use out of it.

While I'm on here, how many people have rebuilt their cv shafts, are they expensive?

I just see a rebuilt motor as a more reliable option then an unknown km second hand motor. I'm already half way through the rebuild anyway so no point stopping now. Considering how much money I've spent on the car now I dont think I could sell it, at this point il be keeping it until atleast 2019 just to get the use out of it.

While I'm on here, how many people have rebuilt their cv shafts, are they expensive?

On a RWD with the ATTESSA its not that expensive if you do it your self. Depending on how shaggered they are, you can get new joints for about $50 a side, then you need the grease and the new boots. Get a CV shop to check them out see if they are still rebuildable and if they sell the parts you need.

second hand motor is definitely the better option, especially if you are just getting randoms to put the rebuild together, highly doubt it will be any more reliable

This is exactly what i was thinking. I'm going through this myself with my Nissan Patrol. I bought a built motor and a 180,000km stocker (not that high km for a big low revving 6 cyl and only $150) . Both are now pulled apart and the stocker is in so much better condition. All the hone marks are still there and everything all in spec. The built motor has turned out to be a crap and not built well at all. If everything is done right and by some1 who knows what they are doing then yes the built motor will be a better option and be more reliable but that will cost you $$$

so far my head has had the full treatment, block hasnt been machined yet but will be machined to suit whatever size pistons i buy. im not getting randoms to assemble it, a machine shop will be boring the block/installing new pistons and bearings then bolting my head on. after that i will put it it in the car as it will be easier to get in it that way, then bolt on all the ancillaries.

at the moment im looking at what pistons to buy, i also have to buy a pair of engine mounts, get a clutch made and get my cvs looked at while they are already out.

a machine shop will be boring the block/installing new pistons and bearings then bolting my head on

Unfortunately there is a lot more to it than that. Will they spend the time get all the tolerances spot on? There is a difference between putting an engine together and building one properly. Your head is done and can be bolted on to a stock bottom end. What power is your turbo meant to put out? Heaps of guys are running 300rwkw on stock bottom ends with no dramas as long as the tune is in order. If it lasts you a year or 2 then buy another bottom end as the head will still be fresh.

You really need to listen to guys on here that have done it all before. You haven't spent any money on the bottom end yet. How much do you think it will cost after you buy the pistons??

I thought neos used an n1 pump?

My turbo is a hypergear atr43 ss-1. I'm planning on running about 220kw at the wheels.

There is no way that I will be buying a second hand motor, my wife won't let me waste that much money for more problems.

I trust my machine shop to do a good job.

you are probably right about the forged pistons, i dont actually need them, but until i get a price on some stock pistons the cp pistons are looking like a cheap enough option, my engine made 220kw on 14 psi last time so it just sounded like a safe number for now. hell on the dyno if i can find a good enough tuner i might make the 250kw that the turbo is claimed to be capable of, but for now a nice safe tune is all i need.

i under stand fully why buying a 2nd hand motor is a bad option, thats why im not really considering that an option, i could buy an unknown km/condition 2nd hand motor and it might only last a few weeks, id prefer to spend $2000 building a brand new internal motor, keeping my matching numbers block in the car and having it built for alot more power then i will ever make with it. then i will know that nothing is going to break in a few months time.

i will weigh up my options about the pistons and im pretty sure stock pistons will be fine for my goal, just at this point i havent seen a price on a set of pistons from nissan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...