Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh sweet sounds promising. Ive ordered some 245/40/18 and ive also booked it in to get the rear guards rolled and ive got some rear adjustable

camber arms to go in just incase :).

Thanks for your advice.

Blake

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6089594
Share on other sites

I read 245/40 on another forum and ordered tyres before the reply. But even if they rub i have adjstable camber rods for the rear anyway.

Is it a track car?

If not, adding camber (depending how much) is just going to destroy your tyres in a matter of months, not the best way to deal with scrubbing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6091118
Share on other sites

So, if your tyres rub you can run more negative camber than is needed so they dont rub but wear out the insides in 5000k, wrong.

Still it depends on your set up, what the car is used for, what compound tyres you have and if its lowered to a good height for handling or a good height for looks.

Dude, roll them guards and get biggest tyres that fit without having to sacrifice handling, correct camber not only effects your handling but also your braking.

More side wall will give you a more comfortable ride but will effect the handling if the side walls are not stiff enough, less sidewall on the street will smash rims if you hit pot holes but will give you more clearance and less side wall shift .

Bigger rubber = more grip

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6091128
Share on other sites

Wont be running too much lower than it is at the momen which isnt very low. Getting the guards rolled so should fit, even if i do need more camber to stop the scrubbing it

wont be very much at all. Have ordered some nitto invo's and im pretty sure they have a pretty decent sidewall and i dont drive it often so wear wont be a massive issue.

But if i dont have to run more camber to fit them i wont, if they dont rub at all i wont even put the adjustable arms in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6091151
Share on other sites

F ark how it looks, its a skyline not a lambo, how does it handle, and is it street friendly, getting the ride height correct for handling will not only make your car more fun to drive your exhaust won't be left on a speed hump and you can enter a driveway without ripping your front bar off.

Measure from center of your rim to the guard, should be around this.

Front 355

Rear 345

I'm not claiming to be a expert, far from it, its just I've spent a lot of time researching this for my car, with a geometricaly correct ride height my car is a lot better now that I've lifted it up a bit so the suspension can work correctly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6104479
Share on other sites

Thanks mate i will have a look and probably adjust accordingly to those specs because i do want the handling of it to be as good as possible.

I was speaking to a track guy yesterday and he reckons i should probably get adjustable camber and caster stuff for the front too to get it all right,

which i think i might do because i wouldnt mind doing some track days in the near future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381557-what-size-tyres/#findComment-6104620
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...