Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys, hope someone can shed some light on my problem.

engine specs: RB26 (Stock)

GT40R BB Turbo

Power FC D-Jetro with ID 725cc injectors

problem is that, no matter the amt of inj duty% I input , the A/F ratio remains 12.2 - 12.3 from 7000 - 7600 rpm. low to med loads are ok.

car is running 15psi.

I am thinking maybe a vacum leak, but the car idles @ 850 rpm steady. On WOT, I am seeing a pim voltage of 3.5v.

what you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/
Share on other sites

ID injectors, the best high imp injectors on the market. (IMO no flaming please)

How did you wire these babys up?

Just wondering.. but....

You just installed them in the stockers place right?

Do me a favour, measure the resistance across the stock GTR injector you took out and then those ID injectors you put in.

Can you see a problem there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6086634
Share on other sites

ID injectors, the best high imp injectors on the market. (IMO no flaming please)

How did you wire these babys up?

Just wondering.. but....

You just installed them in the stockers place right?

Do me a favour, measure the resistance across the stock GTR injector you took out and then those ID injectors you put in.

Can you see a problem there?

bypass the resistor box , since they are high impedence. the stock inj. are low impedence.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6086660
Share on other sites

You've really given us f**k all to work with.

We need more information, like power, all mods, not just a half assed post leaving us guessing.

For all we know this engine could be fitted to a monster truck.

Car is being street tune. as for mods, read the thread again. if it really matters, car is making about 350 whp. ran it against a r33 with 400whp (dyno tune), and was right behind his bumper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6087857
Share on other sites

Have you measured the voltage at the pump?

Are the 725 ID's going to be big enough?

gonna get a fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure drop. did not really suspected this, since everything is new (nismo pump, nismo regulator, ID Inj., fuel rail, fuel filter, turbo etc.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6087946
Share on other sites

I just thought with a GT40 you would need a fair bit of flow, I have hit over 80% on the 1000's with a GTX3071 on eflex.

You may be reaching the limits of your pump, depending how you have it mounted and if the sock is close to the bottom of the tank? I found too with more torque, more fuel is required for similar power output.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6088146
Share on other sites

So I was right all along.

I had this exact problem but you were slowly feeding us scraps with the mods, car type, etc then smartassed me about "reading your scaps" so I gave up helping.

Anyway, glad its solved. Next time you post a thread, post absolutely everything about the car.

Not - "fuel pump maxed out"

"can't be, it's a nismo"

Well, it was, and yes, it was maxed out. Due to low voltage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381656-fueling-problem/#findComment-6098011
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...