Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the guy at musecret said the br's are more for track and are stiffer

dunno if they have a heavier spring rate or what ?

but they would be harsher on daily driving

Are the ones at musecret br's ? thought they were the same v1 ?

this is getting confusing lol

Dude the BC BR's are not even remotely close to harsh. If you run 30 clicks maybe (never done it), but on three clicks it's just slightly stiffer than stock. I'd say about as typical as a standards "sports car"..

BRs have a bigger shock, which holds more oil, and is apparently better quality oil too.

I have BRs with the standard spring rate, and I think they're pretty good. Set to full soft, they're way too soft. I run mine about 5-10 clicks from hard.

BRs are supposed to 'be for track' because the larger oil volume means the oil doesn't heat up as quick (apparently), and they can take more of a beating.

I know Leon ordered his with a softer spring rate, about 1-2kg softer front and rear, and he's really happy with them.

I'm only two in from full soft front; three in from full soft rear.thumbsup.gif

No point turning it into a billycart; doesn't make 'em quicker around corners.whistling.gif

Damn so I'm the only one running them on one click. :unsure:

Looks like I'm even more keen on the comfort - full soft for me :thumbsup: . And as Ryan said, I ordered mine 2kg/mm softer as well. Loving the ride, especially since roads here aren't perfect.

Started with more clicks towards hard & worked back to soft. Can corner fast enough to get put in the big house, so why be uncomfortable while doing it?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...