Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb M35 Stagea Coilovers

Fishingfreak
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fishingfreak Enthusiast

Fishingfreak

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the guy at musecret said the br's are more for track and are stiffer

dunno if they have a heavier spring rate or what ?

but they would be harsher on daily driving

Are the ones at musecret br's ? thought they were the same v1 ?

this is getting confusing lol

jasevr4 Mentor

jasevr4

Posted
Posted

Dude the BC BR's are not even remotely close to harsh. If you run 30 clicks maybe (never done it), but on three clicks it's just slightly stiffer than stock. I'd say about as typical as a standards "sports car"..

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

BRs have a bigger shock, which holds more oil, and is apparently better quality oil too.

I have BRs with the standard spring rate, and I think they're pretty good. Set to full soft, they're way too soft. I run mine about 5-10 clicks from hard.

BRs are supposed to 'be for track' because the larger oil volume means the oil doesn't heat up as quick (apparently), and they can take more of a beating.

I know Leon ordered his with a softer spring rate, about 1-2kg softer front and rear, and he's really happy with them.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

I'm only two in from full soft front; three in from full soft rear.thumbsup.gif

No point turning it into a billycart; doesn't make 'em quicker around corners.whistling.gif

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

Damn so I'm the only one running them on one click. :unsure:

Looks like I'm even more keen on the comfort - full soft for me :thumbsup: . And as Ryan said, I ordered mine 2kg/mm softer as well. Loving the ride, especially since roads here aren't perfect.

Started with more clicks towards hard & worked back to soft. Can corner fast enough to get put in the big house, so why be uncomfortable while doing it?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...