Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i had my car at the mechanics the other day for a radiator water pump and turbo gasket change he also cleaned the plugs regapped them removed the manifold filed it to... its all back together now and when boost comes on my car gets no power at all the turbo sounds like its working but nothing is happening is it possible he has put it back on wrong its a high mount externally gated gt35/40 any ideas would be great guys use always help :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382073-turbo-boosting-but-giving-now-power/
Share on other sites

I doubt you'll get anywhere near full boost if you had a boost leak, I'd say it would be more along the lines of a timming issue, either ignition timing or cam timing.

You said he changed the water pump, so the timing belt most probably was removed, it's possible one of the cams is out a tooth?

Also check you base timing, if it's retarded the car will feel sluggish. It's possible as the CAS would have been removed to get at the water pump.

Is also check inside the piping.

Mechanics put rags in them so no foreign contaminants get in.

Sometimes they forget to take them out.

Will have boost, with no flow.

As mentioned check the timing belt and cas.

Good luck with it.

  • 4 weeks later...

If you did the belt and that when it started chances are very high that either the belt is out by a tooth or 2 or your base timing isnt set to 15 get the light on it and check it out.

Put it all back together and still has the same problem WTF!!

borrowed a timing light and its out -30 degree ish.. advanced the CAS as far as i can go will put timing to 0 when timing should be 15.

time to pull it down again and check for the 10th time... and try and find where im missing 15degree still.

Could my CAS be rooted??? or maybe i have cam timing right but got the crank a tooth or two out? i got the belt right in the past but this time is doing my head in.

Where are you taking the timing from, the loop at the back of the engine or coil #1?

And what timing light is it (cheap, decent etc)?

Loop at back of engine and timing light is from Snap-on.

Car ran like shit again as i was just aligning the CAS back to the same marks before hand so i borrowed the timing light and when i checked it was so far off it wasn't funny.

Once i advanced the CAS the power was back but now top end power has gone completely..

I have checked compression and all cyl are over 160psi so that gave me some hope its not bent vales ect.

Is it possible for the CAS not to alight correctly even with the key?

I counted that i need 38 teeth between inlet and exhaust cam (or 39 to be one past) to line up the belt but with the crank i didn't count teeth i just slipped it on making sure the exhaust side didn't have any slack.. tonight im going to make sure i have the right number of teeth between exhaust and crank.. which is 47 if i read it correctly.

post-30886-0-94531300-1323064820_thumb.jpg

cheers.gif

Always always check again and again when doing the belt before you tension it, after you tension it, then give it a few more rotation and check again so you know its right. It helps using a mirror when trying to see if the crank mark is lined up as its sometimes hard to see exactly. Use the marks on the belt to line them all up then count again to make sure but yeah it is possible for a faulty cas to retard it like that so that can be next checklist once your 100percent sure the belt is lined up.

Always always check again and again when doing the belt before you tension it, after you tension it, then give it a few more rotation and check again so you know its right. It helps using a mirror when trying to see if the crank mark is lined up as its sometimes hard to see exactly. Use the marks on the belt to line them all up then count again to make sure but yeah it is possible for a faulty cas to retard it like that so that can be next checklist once your 100percent sure the belt is lined up.

yeah i have checked and checked again might even try and take a photo and upload it as i could think its aligned but i actually have it off..

Timing belt does not have any marks except for 3 lines all together (its a gates racing belt) and this is why i am counting the teeth (i think I should be counting the gaps on the belt as the numbers are actually on the cam and crank pulley teeth)

Fingers crossed i have it all right and its possibly a f**ked CAS as ill be changing it if i have it all correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...