Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Poor Radio Reception


iwanta34gtr
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi every1,

Im having issues with weak radio reception in my r34.

Done some research and found this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/250936-weak-radio-signal/

Just wanted to clarify, on my stock harness I have a blue cable with 'Ant control" on it, that isnt connected to anything.

Is this the wire which I should be soldering in to an antenna wire on the back of my head unit (Im pretty sure there was one).

Just dont want to screw anything up and plan on giving it a go tomorrow.

Have taken a picture of the harness so u can see the wire im talking about.

Thanks heaps in advance.

post-86021-0-75429300-1320489562_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes follow the instructions and you be right

but note

GTT and R34 in general have horrible radio reception,

tint affects it- some are ceramic, or metallized

landscape does, hills. mtns, builidngs

mutipath in citys does, reflection off metal objects causes mutiple paths of signal to hit the receiver causing drop outs

nissans horrble idea of diversity antennnas in the glass , not a good ground plane

most of the time the hack who installs the jap to oz signal box cuts the wires and tapes them up. not buying the right jack to interface it. thats the first place to check radio reception issues on JDM cars- NISSAN for sure

and if your still having issues check behind the c pillar sail panels in the rear , sometime the antenna wires into the rear glass are unplugged ? or cut

and now with DAB broadcasts you need a better antenna then factory . I use a amplified shark fin(smaller then you pinky finger long). tiny one for DAB tv and radio, works a treat and not horrble looking like some fins

hope that helps before you rip your hair out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

Apologies for the thread revival.

I have installed a Blaupunkt New York 800 in my R34.

I've used an aeropro (from Repco) ISO to Nissan adaptor.

Anyway... the blue wire (ant control) as shown on the OPs pic - where do I actually connect this to on this particular HU?

On a slightly unrelated question - is there some sort of auto dim function (wire) for the HU when I turn on the headlights? As I find the HU way too bright during the night and am forced to manually dim the unit via software settings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the link to the thread from OP mentions having an adaptor to the antenna and an extra single pin plug. I currently have this adaptor from JB hifi

http://jcbid.com/images2/9/3/6/7/2//full/SCOSCHE-NDAB-NISSAN-DIVERSITY-ANTENNA-ADAPTER.jpg

the original connection goes into the right side female end, and the red plug goes into the antenna hole in my head unit. What do i put into the remaining end?

My reception is dodgy and scatty :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He could just take the Bogan Cruise Ships setup... Already got a good setup, with blower, the auto was rebuilt too wasn't it? Perfect time for him to upgrade the tailshaft, diff, and axles...    And wouldn't need to waste money on redoing the Commos seats, as he could just buy race seats for the 5...   As a highly modded car he could avoid the ability to give it away to offspring too when they crash their cars...
    • It's really interesting how much it's moving left to right, and doesn't appear to be actually spreading. For this to be moving left to right, without flaring, means unequal forces being applied until equilibrium hits in one way or another.   Reasons it could be unequal; Piston sizes left to right are different sizes. Only minute differences. Pistons moving on different planes. That is, are they moving directly straight at each other, or slightly out of alignment. The fluid is restricted getting to one side.   Some tests you could do. Pull the bleeders on the left and right, fit each side with pressure gauges. It will allow you to make sure pressure is equal (and really, it should be as fluid flow is so damn low, so fluid flow dynamics shouldn't come into it).   With the calipers off the car, have both sides retracted as far as possible, measure very very accurately (think micrometre) distances between opposing pistons in four different spots per set of pistons. Firstly, on each opposing pistons pair, the measures on for different spots should be equal. If it's not, and especially if one spot appears to actually get closer compared to another, the pistons aren't aligned, and now the forces left to right won't be equal, as they're the forces fighting each other.   You can also pull all the pistons out, and very very accurately measure the diameter of them. If they're not equal left to ight in the pairings, and especially if the area of the pistons on one side is different to the area on the other overall, it'll all be out of whack.   My bet, is shit QC in making sure the pistons move in the same plane left vs right. Some minor out of square machining, and nothing will line up, things will want to move around.  
    • Whilst putting a V8 in a MX5 would be fun, it would negate the whole cheap to run fun daily that the MX5 will be used for If I wanted a faster little convertible I would have got a engine check light, I mean a BMW Z4 M, but going off the issues that the guy at work who recently got one is having, it is lucky I didn't  Meh, horses for courses, the Bogan Cruise Ship is my go to for some horse torques    
    • I reckon give him a few months, LSX swap would be good
    • Mark needs to get bored at work and order things on here...
×
×
  • Create New...