Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Didn't know where else to put this, there isn't a standalone auto elec section. I'm just wondering what these two switches on my R33 are for.

First off is the broken one in the centre console, the icon on it has pretty much rubbed off but looks sort of like a car with lines beehind it and up and down arrows, I've tried to mock it up in paint the best I could. Has a brown PCB underneath it.

P1170096.jpg

P1170098.jpg

P1170099.jpg

button.png

Second one is an unlabeled one under the wiper control arm. It has a moulded section around it like it's supposed to be there but doesn't look like any of the other factory switches. It also doesn't have any writing on it, this may have worn off at some point but it doesn't look like it has copped a lot of use. Switching it doesn't seem to do anything that I've noticed.

P1170102.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382323-what-are-these-switches/
Share on other sites

I doubt at least that the one in the centre console is aftermarket, it is the exact same as the antenna switch except for the picture on it and if the other one is then why does it have a perfectly sized mounting point on the factory dash trim?

If you mean the rocker-type switch near where your left knee would be (below and to the right of the antenna switch in the last photo above), it might be an instrument dimmer switch, they're normally a roller type switch but the one on my new 34 is a rocker-type switch similar to this one. Doesn't seem to do anything on my car either though.

I think these were fitted for compliance in Australia as there needs to be an instrument dimmer control of some sort.

So is that McDonalds or Hungry Jacks that you have all over the place??? No wait....its Peri Peri Salt right?

I'm not sure what it is lol, probably a combination of the above

Switch is definitely a Nissan switch, I've traced it and the wiring looks like it's been chopped up at some point, it goes into a shiny black box under the dash which has a circuit board with NEC all over it, the wiring then goes up higher into the dash behind a whole lot of messy crap. So does anyone actually know what the switch is supposed to be for or what the NEC board is for?

P1170109.jpg

P1170108.jpg

P1170105.jpg

P1170111.jpg

Edited by Miguelone

I am with God Speed on switch 2, it fits so well because most switch holes are a uniform size, all cars must have adjustable dimming on the dash lights in Aus, but I am not sure how often it works in imports. The symbol on the first says traction control to me, car, skid marks, adjust up and down... But that seems a little far fetched....

  • 6 months later...

Wow that options sheet is interesting - so many options I never even knew Jap cars could have back then in the mid 90s, like auto dimming interior mirrors and front / rear PDC (parking radar). You'd usually expect this stuff on a lot of Euro cars.

Looks like you scored on finding the answer to your first switch! Although I never really understood parking aids such as these retractible poles, those coiled/sprung wire bits stuck to the lower corners of the car, or those rubber bump strips that people stick onto their bumpers. In almost every case, these parking aids look even more noticeable than if you actually hit something with your bumper at low speed, and almost as ugly. Although as yours was a genuine factory / dealer option it gives it some definite novelty value!

Mate if you think just that page is interesting check out the whole catalogue.

Series 1 options

http://www.r33gt-r.com/p/nissan-oem-catalog-1995-r33-skyline.html

Series 2 options

http://www.r33gt-r.com/p/nissan-oem-catalog-1996-r33-skyline.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...