Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Wondering if anyone might have a ring gear stopper for an rb26 I could borrow?

I've tried everything I can think of to crack this crank bolt.. It ain't coming off.

I've tried:

3m breaker bar trans in 4th

wooden block on chasis rail then cranking the starter

breaker bar tensioned then belting it with a 1kg hammer

holding the fly in place using two flat end screwdrivers

couldn't fit a rattle gun without moving the condensor...

I'm finding it difficult to get enough of a sudden jolt onto the crank bolt, hoping if I can hold the in place I might be able to crack it with my breaker bar.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382559-ring-gear-stopper/
Share on other sites

I found it easy to do it this way.

1. Take out radiator and Clutch fan

2. Put car in 5th, so it is over a 1:1 ratio

3. Put correct size socket with breaker bar onto the bolt

4. Hop in the engine bay and jump up and down on the breaker bar

...worked for me :P

I have heard of people making sure the end of the breaker bar is on the ground and then turning the engine over...but that is a rather bad way of doing it I would say.

Hey Aberax,

Cheers for the suggestion, however I can't seem to get enough of a sudden shock while using this method. My crank simply turns over, mind you this is with the vehicle on a set of ramps, hand brake up and back wheels chocked. I really need to lock the flywheel then use this method.. ;(

It's on there BLOODY tight... That's for sure.

You need one of those tools that you hit with a hammer. I ended up having to buy one for the same bolt. Cost me over $100 but does it easy. I'll see if i can find a pic.....

One of these. They say they can generate 500nm of torque, I say they aren't using a big enough hammer. You will be able to undo it with the car out of gear so you will avoid putting load through the drive train.

sp70865.jpg

I may lend it out for liquid renumeration

Edited by Race__24

When I had my 100,000km service done, we used a breaker bar against the chassis. My battery wasn't enough to do the job, but his big ass BMW battery (I think from a 4WD) loosened it first try

When I had my 100,000km service done, we used a breaker bar against the chassis. My battery wasn't enough to do the job, but his big ass BMW battery (I think from a 4WD) loosened it first try

Yea Ive got a 550CCA battery if that method was going to work im sure it would have after the first 5 > 10 tries :)

There is a really easy way of doing it,

Socket and breaker bar on crank bolt, place it so the handle of the breaker bar is leaning against the chasis rail/inner well on the undo side or as close to as possible, disconnect your ignition system (unplug coilpack loom), give it a quick short crank with the key, Presto!! Starter motor does all the muscle work for you :)

Edited by SkyHi_33

You need one of those tools that you hit with a hammer. I ended up having to buy one for the same bolt. Cost me over $100 but does it easy. I'll see if i can find a pic.....

One of these. They say they can generate 500nm of torque, I say they aren't using a big enough hammer. You will be able to undo it with the car out of gear so you will avoid putting load through the drive train.

sp70865.jpg

I may lend it out for liquid renumeration

ive been looking for one of these for a while now.. where did you get yours from?

Y not go the slip knot rig? Easy as pie! And costs f**k all!

Old bike tube cut up, slip knot done to tighten itself as your pulling.

Breaker bar, i cut down a no parking sign out the front of my house for added leverage ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...