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Rb25 Rebuild


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Hi I’m after some help as my r33 gtst s2 rb25det needs arebuild.

I’m after advice on any good kits to buy and good machine shops to go

to get crank or bore machined. Also what to know what brand of parts are good

to get (pistons, bottom end bearings etc.).

I’m after all the advise I can get please…..

I’m located in Melbourne.

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Consider buying a short block already completed, you get a warranty and if you buy from a reputable builder you get a guarantee that it is done properly. No risk of someone doing a dodgy job, especially if they have never built an rb before.

rips and redrracing do some fantastic motors all completed ready to go with a warranty.

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If its affordable I'd base it on a Neo head and matching pistons because I think the later revision has some combustion advantages over the R33 version . I'm not sure what the story is with the CAS here , would the late plastic cover R33 CAS mate the R34 cam drive with R33 engine electrics ?

Also is an RB30 short an option for you ?

A .

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Rollz thanks for the comment.... Do u have the contact number or websites for those places that you have suggested?

And thanks to everyone with the help still.... But I would still love more help with website and places to buy good qaulity parts for a build plus any advise on a good machine shop to check and measure bore and crank...

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Depending on the HP you are targetting.

For reference on my test rig rebuild:

Forged Pistons from:

CJ motors 0421622288

Bearings, head bolds and gasket set from:

MD spares: 95530388

You will need strong valve springs for high boost, I'm using supertech valve spring kit from ebay US.

I Used Reflex engineering for engine rebore, short block building and head reconditioning: 93054807

AMR work shop for assembly: 93866196

That would give a fairly solid "stock engine" but nothing crazy.

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Thanks hypergear for reply.... What area codes are those numbers because I might give them a buzz...

Also with that build what sorta power where u getting???

Thanks alot :)

They all in Melbourne, the area code is 03. The most power I've got of this setup was 345rwkws on 28psi with 98 purple. That was also running stock manifolds and etc. Its used as a test car so it gets flogged on 20psi+ all the time and holding together fine.

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Its a testing rig so it gets new prototypes installed every week. Its currenly running a Ceramic roller bearing G3 which drives pretty nice, the 345rwkws that was a KAI high flow out of a OP6 rear, which made the power but not so good in driving ability.

Cost in building this motor I've spent just under $4G including labor. If your block isn't bad as mine (I had sleeve in 1 cyc) and not looking to beef up its valve springs then you can get every thing done for about $3G.

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Rollz thanks for the comment.... Do u have the contact number or websites for those places that you have suggested?

And thanks to everyone with the help still.... But I would still love more help with website and places to buy good qaulity parts for a build plus any advise on a good machine shop to check and measure bore and crank...

http://www.ripsltd.com/index2.html

paul diemar from red r racing is the other bloke, do a google or search on here, you will find something.

Do it once do it properly imo, the amount of dodgy stories I hear is ridiculous, a lot of people end up doing it twice so you'd be better off just spending the extra the first go and having it done properly. There are lots of other workshops that would do it but being as you are in the USA these are the only two that I know regularly ship overseas. Shipping time will be a while, but I doubt it would be much longer than paying someone to build a motor for you.

If its affordable I'd base it on a Neo head and matching pistons because I think the later revision has some combustion advantages over the R33 version . I'm not sure what the story is with the CAS here , would the late plastic cover R33 CAS mate the R34 cam drive with R33 engine electrics ?

Also is an RB30 short an option for you ?

A .

Need to use the R34 CAS with R34 head, but you just rewire the pins 1-4 2-3 3-2 4-1 and it works fine, same deal with the different coils, you just cut the ignitor out of the loom and it runs fine.

Edited by Rolls
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Was the machining expensive?

What about ur crank? Did u keep stock rb25det crank? If so did u have to get it machined?

Thanks alot with ur replays hypergear :)

I had one badly damaged bore, which had to be sleeved. other wise its only $40 per bore, the crank wasn't bad so they just linished it and assembled every thing together. If your engine's not bad with you doing most of the work the machine part is pretty cheap. Ring up reflex and get a quote. tell them you are from blah blah workshop and they give you a trade discount. How ever bring them the engine block and pistons that are ready to be machined and fitted, they charge alot for stripping the engine.

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