Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Twin scroll with be best.

I run a single scroll equal length love fab turbo header with a tial 60mm wg.

Spool test was at .7 bar no boost controller.

Results was:

5 psi at 3,200 rpm

10 psi at 4,300 rpm

Which was fool boost

We set our rev limit to 5,000 rpm

Which was hitting rev limit at 4,800rpm

You can check out Kelford camshafts

They use a lower lift but the same duration as my tomei.

Mine is 10.25 both camshafts

They do help spool

Why the super low boost level and rev limiter?? Are you running the engine in?

Twin scroll with be best.

I run a single scroll equal length love fab turbo header with a tial 60mm wg.

Spool test was at .7 bar no boost controller.

Results was:

5 psi at 3,200 rpm

10 psi at 4,300 rpm

Which was fool boost

We set our rev limit to 5,000 rpm

Which was hitting rev limit at 4,800rpm

You can check out Kelford camshafts

They use a lower lift but the same duration as my tomei.

Mine is 10.25 both camshafts

They do help spool

Kelfords camshaft listing for the rb25 is kinda unclear. It shows hydrilic lifters but says that its not suitable for the r33 an r34 with nvcs. So will these drop right into a series 1 rb25det with hydros...? No springs or solid lifters right....?

Why only 22psi? Just keep screwing more in until it stops making power or you run into detonation issues.

This is probably the smartest post of yours on SAU.

Why people stop at a certain number they get stuck in their heads is just STUPID

Lol

A high boost T78 will Demand tire changes like you wouldn't believe.

The demand wide rims to have atleast a 275 or a 300 wide tire to be able to find some grip.

This means rims less the 10j are useless unless you can afford good sticky dot tires with treadware 100 or less.

Plan ahead and get ready to spend some good cash on suspension and wheels/tires.

Learn how suspension works.

Become a expert in spring rates etc.

The more you know the less money you waste.

That's my 2cents

Why people stop at a certain number they get stuck in their heads is just STUPID

Ahh, whats stupid about it? A std engine with 9.0:1 compression on PULP98 is going to fall victim the laws of physics if you lean on it too hard.

A std 9.0:1 compression bottom end isnt going to like too many revs, too much boost or too much power in general. Mix all three together and you have to accept that the state you are running your engine in may result in a faiulure.

Keep revs to below 7,800rpm, boost under 20psi and I suspect the thing will be pretty reliable even if its making 360rwks. Run 24psi and the risk simply increases

Keep revs to below 7,800rpm, boost under 20psi and I suspect the thing will be pretty reliable even if its making 360rwks. Run 24psi and the risk simply increases

Why 20psi, why not keep it under 18psi?

You are guessing, really need to put it on the dyno and see how it behaves, if it doesn't detonate or get hot then what is the issue?

Edited by Rolls
  • 1 year later...

Update time.

Made 300kw on 16-17psi and e85.

I did end up with more but i was running out of fuel. I think it's time for a new fuel filter.

Will retune on 98 and e85 with more boost a bit down the track.

Out of interest what plugs should i be running?

What sort of timing no's should i expect up top? Currently it's around 17-18deg.

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...