Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, picked up our 01 m35 last weekend.While we love the car for its size(have kids) and looks, have had a few issues stopping me from seeing what the car is really like(if you know what i mean).

Firstly the exhaust had a blockage and a leak so had the 4 tonne boat anchor taken out and replaced. But the turbo would appear to be having issues,it whistles quite loudly(i am comparing this to my subaru i just got out of)but also sounds like it has a slight leak.My mechanic checked it out and it has no leaks so this week he is going to check the turbo,seems to think that the compressor is rubbing on the housing (i think thats what he said lol) has anyone had to deal with this before any help would be appreciated.

Anyway great forum with heaps of info

this is her, i will give it a good clean and polish this weekend

P1020214.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/
Share on other sites

Mine is the same with the whistle. I was told it was a sign the turbo was out of balance, but all of them seem to be like that.

I think it's just inevitable that you'll have to replace the turbo, but the whistle isn't automatically the sign.

Oh and exhaust out is great, just make sure you do the dump pipe too! There are a few options now depending where you are. Scotty on here does them, and AM Performance in Adelaide do them. These seem to be the proven options.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6107958
Share on other sites

Congrats on the new purchase, looks good.:thumbsup:

The turbo on these is quite noisy anyway, so you may not necesssarily have an issue, but it might be worth getting your mechanic to check out the oil feed banjo bolt to the turbo, while he's poking around; to check for blockage. If you've freed up a blocked exhaust; you're probably getting proper boost now, hence the extra noise.

My turbo has been noisy since I bought it, and 45000km later still going strong; not any noisier, but I did pull the banjo out and drill it to 2mm.

Best of luck, and enjoy the new toy.

Cheers, Dale

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6107986
Share on other sites

I have a stock turbo here thats nearly silent so the noise could be either the front wheel rubbing (turbo is flogged) or usually its the rear bearing on its way out (like Dale said, drill the banjo restrictor out) Dont stress, it could last years like that if it has a good oil supply.

Changeing the T3 manifold gasket with a new oem one could be a good idea too, its a pain to get in to though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6108149
Share on other sites

These all have a loud whistle, mine does and i have test driven loads of them with all the same load whistle, a turbo upgrade would be the way to go if you need it but these ones run fine on factory 14psi. I ripped out my factory exhust and replaced with 3'' big bore but had change the rear muff as it was just too loud for us on long trips.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6109118
Share on other sites

As I have stated before, this is probably the main reason for the original Japanese owners got rid of their cars at auction. The repair bill for a replacement turbo fitted from nissan would cost more than the car is worth over there.

My turbo had a fairly loud whistle when I got it. I highflowed that one before it blew but the stock one I have here is nearly silent. After dissasembly all I could find wrong with my original was the rear bearing was contaminated with dirty burnt oil and exhaust particles. All you can do in this case is increase the oil supply and hope it doesn't fail soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6109155
Share on other sites

Well I will pick it up from the mechanics soon an apparently the turbo is perfect and everything seems fine so I just have a noisy turbo. Just not used to it being loud after having the quiet turbo in the Subaru.So it now needs a service for new plugs and an injector clean so I'm of to a great start with the car but at least there is nothing major stuffed on it fingers crossed

Edited by fishola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6112319
Share on other sites

When you put the foot down it boosts up then stutters like its missing,not all the time only when you give it a bit and fuel consumption is crap its used half a tank and done 170ks and that's driving like a granny. I generally get all our cars serviced not long after buying them any way plus our mechanic has only charged me for a air filter and he has had the car twice in the first week since we have had it.

Not sure how he checked it but he said its fine and I trust him he has been our mechanic for years and dealt with plenty of turbos with the rally cars he has had over the years

Edited by fishola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6112643
Share on other sites

When you put the foot down it boosts up then stutters like its missing,not all the time only when you give it a bit and fuel consumption is crap its used half a tank and done 170ks and that's driving like a granny. I generally get all our cars serviced not long after buying them any way plus our mechanic has only charged me for a air filter and he has had the car twice in the first week since we have had it.

Not sure how he checked it but he said its fine and I trust him he has been our mechanic for years and dealt with plenty of turbos with the rally cars he has had over the years

I'd also be looking at the O2 sensor.:thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382920-new-to-the-stag/#findComment-6112885
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...