Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there, was just thinking about putting a chip on my r32 GTS-T RB20DET, but dont really know too much about them, so justw anted to know if u have any personal experience with any particular ones, cost, benefits, disadvantages, fuel economy, anything useful to know.

found one on ebay seems reasonably but like i said have no idea what im looking for.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTS-t-RB20DET-Performance-Drift-Chip-/200673553677?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb9136d0d

Personally, my r32 gts-t is running around 12psi boost, has a hi-flow cat and cat back exhaust...not much mods, so will a chip make a difference at all? should i go for this easy mod?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383095-performance-chips/
Share on other sites

Probably get about an extra 100-150 FTWkw, and if you add racing stripes looking at another 50kw add speed holes and looking at reduced drag.

So all up. Get the chip, paint stripes and punch holes in car. Untouchable yo!!!!! worship.gif

gee thanks for the useful info...as i said i dont know much about them so not necessary to be like that "yo"

Dude. It's a computer chip. On eBay. What could possibly go wrong?

didnt mean just the performance chips on ebay, wanted to know all the info about them, are they worth getting from well known brands, what are they? price differnces etc,

Are performance chips in general a good idea or a load of bull?

what u plan on doing in the future will impact on the choice u make,

if u just keep the car how it is then just get a nistune, will provide a decent level of tunning to some good results, clean up how the car drives

or if u plan on going further with bigger turbos, injectors n the like choices will go from the simple but reliable power fc costing usually round $1000+ tunning right thruogh to haltec, motec etc which will cost u a shit load more

but as said above if u simply went into the forced induction section and used the search function all the answers u could ever want will show up.

This type of question have been covered many times before, thats y people get the shits when it is continually asked

Look at it this way, if it cost $35 to increase the HP so easily, why didn't Nissan do it? Just getting your car tuned properly on a dyno after making any sort engine mod is going to cost several $100 or more.

Modding a car correctly is EXPENSIVE! If you find anything that you want, that doesn't make you think "hmmmmm........do I need to eat this month?", then it is probably a cheap piece of crap that will kill your car eventually. When it comes to modding your car, "you get what you pay for" is correct in about 99% of situations.

Ok cool, thanks for the info guys, yeah I don't plan to modify this car all too much, went thru all the major modyifing with another car n kinda over it, just want something nice to cruise around in that looks neat. So I'll look into the nistune option, again thanks.

ill sell the midas touch since i got it, and it will add 30-31.1 million hp :) no support mods needed matter a fact no engine needed either! :P

...stay away from that sorta crap...people spend $1000 to get 10kw, so just think about it......

Edited by Ezy03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...