Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, how's it going?

Been floating around the forums for a while now and thought it was time to introduce ourselves and ask for a little bit of help.

Our names are Drew and Jess. We live with Veilwest and Ozcan so its a very Nissan friendly household with Ozcan's black on black R34 GTT, Veilwests widebody S15 and our R32 GTR. Currently the GTR is a little dead (spun a bearing :pwned: ) so thats the main reason for not introducing ourselves a little earlier lol. It was only on the roads of Canberra for 1 day before it shat itself so unlikely its been spotted driving around but may have been spotted while on the back of a tow truck once or twice.

It's gunmetal grey with a gold pearl to it (Ask Eiji, its hot lol). Very pretty but very dead lol. Still love the car, its in the process of being fixed so hopefully we'll be able to meet up with everyone before the end of the year.

Anyway, back to asking for a little bit of help....

I gave my dad (Drew's dad) my old R32 GTS when me and Jess bought the GTR so he's currently in the process of trying to get a roadworthy sorted. I only owned the car for close to a year so i never ended up swapping the rego over because by the time rego ran out we would have our GTR. Basically the exhaust that the previous owner put on it is ridiculously loud and failed roadworthy, so I'm wondering if anyone here has a stock or quiet catback exhaust for an R32 that would pass roadworthy that me and my dad would be able to buy or borrow for a couple of days at some point to pass roadworthy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :thanks:

Cheers guys,

Drew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383287-im-new-pluslittle-help/
Share on other sites

Cheers Zebra

Have contemplated fitting another muffler, its something we're considering at the moment but got quoted today $320 to make it 100% legal. Haven't had a chance to shop around for quotes yet but does $320 sound a bit steep?

yeah it's stainless.

the setup it has at the moment is completely stock from engine to cat and then stainless 3inch from cat back. even with the silencer in it it's still to loud and has the worst sound lol.

good to know that $320 is pretty average though, might ask dad if he wants me to go halves with him to help him out

$300 a day, really? thats insane lol.

$320 really doesn't sound so bad anymore. Hoping to get everything sorted by end of next week but we'll just get another week permit if thats not possible. He also got told that both front suspension upper ball joints (i think thats what its called. the bit at the bottom of the upright where the front hubs pivot) have play in them and it got failed on that too. he got quoted $1600 to fix it all but thats with getting brand new uprights from nissan. I've got another pair of front uprights/hubs at home so this weekend im thinking of swapping those ones in to see if its any better. it's not possible to just tighten the bolt to fix the play unless the bolt is already loose correct?

if you understand what im trying to describe lol.

Cheers

As a general rule of thumb, I've noticed exhausts come in multiple parts:

Dump pipe

Front pipe

Cat converter

Cat back (upto almost the axle)

Muffler section

If course this is just for single muffler systems - or at least mine.

The exhaust on dads 32 is in 2 parts from the cat to the end. Cat to about half way (rear axle ish) is straight through, no muffler/resonator type thing, connected to the rear section by a 2 bolt flange, then from that flange there's maybe 2 feet of pipe which curves to go under axle then welded to the rear muffler which is a cannon/hotdog type jobbie. 3inch from cat to the end

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...