Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i were you id go buy tony's gtt. :P (blah_blah)

Link?

$17k is a little pricey, i'd be dubious of the km's. But if you want a clean unmodified version, and an independent vehicle inspection gives it the tick, then you might just have to pay the extra $.

Have you considered other skylines? Early model R33 GTR's are cheap theses days if you want save some extra $, older cars, but much better bang for buck comparing stock for stock. A few mods on the GTR will go a long way.

Hi mate,

Yeah i have actually considered both an R32 and R33 GTRs.

Given i don't know too much about cars (i am improving though) i am worried about going with the R32 GTR given the age of the car and the niggling problems that everyone seems to encounter with them (although there is one nice R32 GTR for sale and its the 1994 model, so the fuel pump issues shouldn't be that bad). However, having said that, if i did get one i wouldn't touch it, i would leave it as stock as i can (quick enough for me), which might help with any future problems. The same goes for R33 GTRs which probably won't have as many problems, however, i much prefer the look of R32's/R34's to 33's. I would almost feel guilty buying one just for the sake of it knowing i would rather a R32/R34. I won't lie the R33 GTR has grown on me, but not sure if it is enough for me to buy one over a 32/34.

R34 GTR is my dream car, but too pricey for me at this stage.

Edited by Comsic Gate
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry for double post.

I txted the owner asking if he has any documentation regarding the legitimacy of the odometer readings. He said that he as the auction report which has all the info.

I will take a look to see if its legit or not, either way i will try bargin the car down if i can. If not then i won't bother with it as you guys are saying its overpriced.

Accepting donations for my GTT so I can buy a Geee Teee Argghh

Yes, help Tony get a proper car with proper seats!

And his 34 goes alright.

....You guys know what I am about to say...

I <3 the Vic section

OP - If you buy a 34 you should get the Fire Wire mod, otherwise you will be flying blind.

Better come back to earth, or you will be flying over the rainbow

I know i had luck but I bought a 2001, 34GTT for $11,500 with 11 Months rego, splitfire coils, Iridium plugs, apexi pod, nismo exhaust, FMIC, coilovers and clean as. It is under 100k km's on the clock with Major service done. My mechnic without prompting was impressed with it's condition. I have had it for 6months and driven it every single day. As I said maybe I'm lucky but there was a Black 34GTT on carsales for the same price with factory sunroof a month back and it was sweet also.

$17,500 is way too much now days.

IMHO - Hang on to your cash and look aroound a bit more. If your new to this find someone you trust who srsly knows cars.

I have a 32 and unless you have deep pockets def go a 34 GTT.

Well i just got back from the inspection.

He said he will sell the car to me for $15.5k, however that is with nothing done (no rego, stamp duty, although he said it will include RWC), otherwise he said 17k with everything done.

I still think its a bit over priced, but then again the car is real clean and he showed me documentation from the auction with records of the legitimacy of the odometer. I couldn't find any rust at all and there wasn't any issues with the coilpacks either.

I am still not sure, i am still seriously contemplating getting a R33 GTR :).

Managed to bring the price down to $16.5k for everything done.

I think that is a much better deal. I recon i will strongly consider it, although he needs the money by friday before he goes overseas for 5 weeks :\.

Edited by Comsic Gate

The GTT will be worth $10,000 in a couple of years, just like 33s are worth $7000 now.

Food for though.

For $15,000 you should be able to get a 300 + killerwasp 33 with reco motor and lots of fruit, or even a 34 with some mumbo, their out there.

The GTT will be worth $10,000 in a couple of years, just like 33s are worth $7000 now.

Food for though.

For $15,000 you should be able to get a 300 + killerwasp 33 with reco motor and lots of fruit, or even a 34 with some mumbo, their out there.

Yeah thats true, but i don't plan on buying this car as an investment.

Actually on carsales there is not one good R34 GTT under $15,000 for sale! Well for Melbourne at least.

dude.....just buy it.....your goin to argue about what everyone says anyway......(by the looks of it)

SO IN MY OPINION....DO WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY

IF YOU THINK UR GOING TO BE FINE WITH BUYING IT>>>>>>>>>> BUY THE BLESSED THING...

if not...then dont waste time n settle for something different....

each of us are different and we all have our preferences.....would I sell my 33 gtst and buy a GTR....NO WAY...see thats me....there will be heaps who think im mad....

BUT DO WHAT YOUR GOING TO BE HAPPY WITH...five mins / five days / five years down the line your going to have to deal with it...not us on this forum...

Every car is going to have problems....no matter how old it is or how much it has been driven....yes there are trends...and patterns...and certain things are more prone to breaking etc....

but you do what you want to do...Im not saying asking for opinions is a bad idea...hey its a great idea....but just remember...you are going to be making this decision...and you have to live with the choice

SORRY IF I SOUND ALL PREACHY....im just saying...coz I have learnt to deal with things my way and have learnt one thing.....you do what you are comfortable with...not what 20 odd ppl tell you on a forum....my 2 and a half cents :nyaanyaa:

Its a shame all the ones around 15k or below suck lol:(.

This

I looked at three, one looked like the owner had allowed a big dog to sleep in it, there was dog hair everywhere

One apartenly had 43000kms didn't believe it for a second

And one felt soooo down on power it wasn't funny

All under $16k all sucked

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...