Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As I float between States with work, I am not sure whether I should register my car in NSW, Vic or QLD.

Is one state better for registration than another. I was shocked to see that in Vic they want me to pay stamp duty on rego, despite my having owned the car OS and having the rego papers to prove it was in my name abroad. Is NSW the same with regards to having to pay stand duty? Qld?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/383835-registration-costs-for-imports/
Share on other sites

As I float between States with work, I am not sure whether I should register my car in NSW, Vic or QLD.

Is one state better for registration than another. I was shocked to see that in Vic they want me to pay stamp duty on rego, despite my having owned the car OS and having the rego papers to prove it was in my name abroad. Is NSW the same with regards to having to pay stand duty? Qld?

I had the same problems and also questioned the stamp duty on one of my personal imports for QLD and even though i also had proof the vehicle was previously registered in my name they said it was irrelevant as it is new registration and its just a tax i have to pay. this would be the same in all states for stamp duty. I would sugest you just state a price the car was worth to buy or sell in the country you imported it from IE the lower the better = less stamp duty.

Queensland i believe atm has 1 of the most relaxed registration laws in Australia apart from WA, you will need RWC to register it in your name but then you just need to keep paying registration no more RWC unless you sell it.

Bris, the other thing to comsider is that you will have to change your license if you wish to register a car in any other state. I couldn't register the Stagea in QLD with my Vic license, so had to change it. If you have a car registered in another state, you can continue to pay the rego on it, just get the form sent to someone's address that can forward it to you. We did this with Nat's car for almost 2 years, with her rego going to her parents.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...