Jump to content
SAU Community

To get a cheapy or not a cheapy that is the question


Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Not sure if this is the best place to post this question.. but if not please move it for me. :D

The question is... UHF radio is there something special I should look for? or just get the cheapest and nastiest there is? :thumbsup:

Just need an idea on how much to spend on one and wether there is any recommended one (or one to stay away from).

Cheers,

To get a cheapy or not a cheapy that is the question

go for the Uniden twin pack and go halves with someone, any other cheapies have no range imho

OR

go for an in car radio, Belgarion has one, ask him if you are interested :thumbsup:

just so you know uniden also make a stronger wattage hand held for about 150 or so which i spotted in a dicksmith catalogue

the stronger the wattage the better reception and larger ears you have... so to speak

(i got big ears) in cars are expensive however most uniden hand held radios are good quality.

yeah alex go splits with ben on the uniden ones, they're about 100 or 150, so its good when u split with someone else. just make sure u have backup batteries as they munch them up fairly quickly! but im sure they all do that.

I got this brick from work, and it's range is awesome for a hand held, dunno how much it costs though, I will be looking at an incar hooked up through stereo, I reckon incar is the only way to go for range!! This one I got is a GME TX6000.

I went halfs with my mate on the tiny tiny tiny twin pack one. They do the job on the highway, but arent too much chop out further.

Also get one that uses AA batteries not AAA batteries. The thing will pay for its self in like 2months :)

As far as cheap UHF radio's go .. You get what you pay for, cheap rubbish with less than 100m range.

The GME TX 6000 are good for a handheld radio and far better than any of the uniden range.

Me personally, I prefer a commercial grade of radio, Standard Communications GX 2000-U, or a Tait T2020 with 25 watts of RF punch [my ears must be huge hey BelGarion], though I use the GX 2000 more often as it more robust.

Expect to pay $600 for a Tait and around $1000 for a [sC] GX 2000.

Palm beach!! your kidding haha i was there last weekend at the telebudgera surf life saving RSL i think it was

I bought the 2watt Uniden hand held, has a minium of 5km range which is definately true

i was talking to some guy atleast 5 km away before on mine

has LOW/MED/HIGH modes too if you want longer distance or shorter without wasting batteies

$160 from autobahn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...