Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I went to change my tie rod ends last weekend and noticed my tension rod bushings were gone and from the looks of it they don't have much time left before being completely destroyed.

Does anyone know if the 300ZX tension rod bushing will fit? I found those online and also for s13 and s14. I also found for r33 but those are in England and is pretty expensive to get here (thats my last option).

I'm not looking for adjustable tension rods, those won't be good for our roads here.

Any help would be apreciated, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384340-tension-rod-bushing/
Share on other sites

Yes the tension rod bush (strut bar to chassis mount bush) is the same in the S13, Z32 and R33.

You can buy them from most local suspension shops in Polyurethene.

How much are the bushings? and will you be fitting them yourself?

i ended up buying them in NISMO off ebay new for $330 with freight and fit them myself, it only took 20min. by the way its a pair of tension rods with the bushes for $330.

Edited by central coast person

the s13 and s14 bushes i saw on ebay were 78US dollars for the pair and i will be going to my mechanic to get them pressed but will do the install myself. it isnt much work.

Its good to hear they all fit, now i wont have to order them from england. This will save me good money for other things.

You could source some adjustable ones from Whiteline. They're still poly, but have an offset crush tube so you can tweak the castor a little.

Having said that, I have had these on my car, and replaced them with Cusco adjustables. The extra adjustment available is worth just about any pain to get hold of, and better yet, the change from soft bushings to metal bearings did not have any negative effect on NVH levels.

jdm obsession are selling superpro non adjustable for $67.20AUD $111.20 for adjustable - not sure on postage costs from them

http://www.jdmobsess...sort=20a&page=1

Those are some great prices but it will probably cost more to ship them over here then the items itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...