Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After taking my car to a track day last week, the power steering hasn't been the same, so I'm looking for some problem solvers/diagnosis experts to think this through with...

I know the power steering overheated on the track. I let it cool down, then drove it home. No loss of fluid, but it was really heavy at very slow speeds. Fine at higher (+10km/h) speeds.

The next morning I sucked the fluid out of the reservoir (which looked clean, and didn't smell burnt), and refilled it. Started the car (cold) and turned the steering from lock to lock 5 times. No dramas - steering was light, no loud noises and the fluid level remained the same.

Took it for a drive, and after 10 minutes when the car was warm I pulled into a car park. The steering was HEAVY turning in. no assistance at all. I stopped, reversed (so revs went up) and had another go and the steering went light again. I then went forward, put it in neutral and with the engine now warm (idling at ~500rpm) the steering was really heavy when stationary.

I reversed out, took off up the road and went through some roundabouts - all good. Steering was light and felt like it always did.

Made it back home and once again, when the revs dropped to idle it lost the power assistance completely.

So I don't know much about power steering pumps...but this seems like a pump problem to me. I'm confused because is it's not completely stuffed - it works as long as the revs are over 1000rpm. Can a power steering pump "partially" fail? Is there anything else that could cause this issue? Leaking valves?

And finally, what's the best place to get a replacement pump? Has anyone got an old one sitting around? The missus will refuse to drive it soon...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384489-power-steering-problem-solving/
Share on other sites

I had a similar problem but instead of the steering being heavy some of the time,mine was always heavy.

The fix was a genuine Nissan power steering pump overhaul/seal kit,I put in the new seals and she's all perfect.So maybe the seals are about to go in your pump,I'd go and by a pump seal kit if I were you.

Ask Jetwreck. He cooked his power steering on the track, and warned me I'd need a cooler. He might be able to tell you what he did to fix it.

Seals might make sense though?

When I looked into the cooler, I found that everything else with a similar steering rack (350z, v35, pm35, etc) had a cooler, but we didn't.

I have a small cooler to hook up to mine when I get a chance, any ideas which hose it needs to go into?

Hey Scotty,

It should go on the low pressure side of the system; so in the return line to the reservoir.thumbsup.gif

I had a similar problem but instead of the steering being heavy some of the time,mine was always heavy.

The fix was a genuine Nissan power steering pump overhaul/seal kit,I put in the new seals and she's all perfect.So maybe the seals are about to go in your pump,I'd go and by a pump seal kit if I were you.

Yeah, that's what I don't get - if it was always heavy or leaking it would be easy. I guess early seal failure could show up like this.

i MAY have a 2nd hand pump in the garage from an M35

Can you PM me a price if you've got one? That sounds better than potentially waiting a couple of weeks for one from Japan. Nissan said they can probably get one, but they want the VIN before they order it.

funnily enough, after driving the car for just a short time you can feel the reservoir heat up quite quickly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...