Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

lately my rb30 in my 31 has been over heating, i have been doing some research on here with others that have had overheating problems, but none of them have helped me so heres what i have done.

(car got to120degrees last night) but still drives fine

i have put a new radiator in($330 from Natrad), got the block flushed, change and removed thermostat, the clutch fan is fine, i have change with temp sender unit(thought it might be faulty), put a new temp gauge in. the only other thing i can think of is if the water pump has shit it self. is there a way to test the water pump is working fine.

any help would be much appreciated

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384657-rb30-overheating/
Share on other sites

the 2 causes of overheating that you haven't yet done (although you have considered 1 of them) is a shot water pump, or a blown head gasket. if you are losing coolant then it will be the head gasket, but if you aren't then it is most likely fine.

i have checked oil there is no water in it and there is no bubbles when i take the radiator cap off, and I'm not loosing any water,

and you have checked if there is coolant moving across the top tank?it will overheat if the coolant isnt moving(but not too fast)

Is this an R31 thing? None of the cars i have ever owned can you see the water moving across the top tank. It just sit there and pulsates. lol

wether it pulsates or moves (whatever the terminology)if the water isnt circulating then the radiator wont remove heat from the coolant

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...