Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys bought some coilovers and put them in last night, as the thread says they are BC Coilovers. Now the front will go lower and sit how i want them to but the rear, but the rears, they do not go as a low as i am wanting... I have never really worked with something like that setup before, the strut and then the rear spring. now with the strut i raised that to as high as it can go, (to make it lower) and then the spring i put i all the way down to it lowest point to make it lower, am i doing this correctly? what do i need to do because i am running 18's on it and it still showing around 25mm off the tyre? I do not want to slam it down all the time, but i just wanted to lower it. I am thinking of going to get a new spring made up from Adelaide, or let me know if i am doing something wrong?

Just wondering because the fronts can go sooooo much lower, but the rear is still pretty high??

Let me know..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384766-stagea-bc-coilovers/
Share on other sites

you need to shorten the strut and lower the spring at the same time. dont lower the spring too much as it needs to remain captive in the seat at full droop, so it doesnt pop out when you go over a big hole.

From the middle of the wheel, to the guard its 370mm, seems as low as it can go, the front can go so much lower, and i was just wondering why or how i can get the rear lower, you will see in the picture below that i only wanted to lower it like 10-15mm all around, just to sit it down on the rim a little better.

IMG_0527.jpg

IMG_0528.jpg

Edited by purezx

Purezx; they should go much lower than that; mine are at 355mm with plenty more thread to go.

I reckon I could get another inch easily.

Hell, look at Jays;382078_10150382772448024_785208023_8373296_1685795364_n.jpg

Have you got some pics of the spring and adjustable perch mounted in position? Not saying you've done it wrong; but something might not be quite right and a photo might show us.:thumbsup:

Have you loosened all of your arm to chassis mounting bolts (pivot points on the subframe) to ensure they aren't bound up? You need to get it on some ramps, so the car is loading the suspension then loosen; maybe even pry open slightly, then retighten all of the lower mounts.

Edit; lol Jase; great minds and all that...:nyaanyaa:

Edited by Daleo

The little wheels wont be helping matters.

lol, they're 18's. Just smaller tires from what I can read. Some 245/45's will fill the guards a bit more. Dale might suggest 245/50's to do the job, but I'd disagree.

General consensus is 245/45 is the best choice for guys running 18's. It's a popular enough size to be affordable. I wouldn't go smaller than that, and was actually thinking of going to 245/50, until Dale talked me out of it. That size has a diameter 77mm bigger, so will really fill those huge guards, but looks could be compromised.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...