Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Ok the molds for the sub enclosures are complete so i will now be taking orders

Price per Enclosure will be $200 carpeted in as close as i can get to stock Grey carpet. The enclosures will be supplied without terminals (terminals can be bought for $8), this enclosure is to suit the passenger side

A 50% deposit will be required to confirm the order, PM me for banking details

I would like at least a batch of 5 to cover my inital costs i.e molds and labour, so once 5 orders have been confirmed i will start construction the turnaround will be approx 7 days

The approx thickness of these enclosures is 5-8mm, with a seamless top section and a 16mm mdf base

Will Suit 10" or 12" sub-woofers upto approx 170mm deep

(I personally have fitted a DLS MW12 with ease to my own enclosure)

Post here if you are interested or have any Q's

Here Are a few pictures to see what they look like

post-85092-0-71733000-1323160124_thumb.jpg

post-85092-0-30620200-1323160146_thumb.jpg

Fresh out of the mold with slightly improved curves

(excuse the dust)

post-85092-0-50958900-1323161326_thumb.jpg

post-85092-0-81707900-1323161314_thumb.jpg

Edited by Fgjoh
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385044-c34-stagea-sub-enclosure-gb/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Mate, Would definitely be keen on one (or two) of these but have a few questions first.

1. Are you able to supply and fit the terminals if the additional $8.00 is paid? Or make it $10 for your troubles.

2. How can you access the Attessa bottle behind the Amplifier on the Drivers side?

3. What does the Passenger Sub box attach to and vise versa for the Drivers side?

Really cool enclosure though mate! Will lay down a deposit once I get paid :)

Cheers

Hey Mate, Would definitely be keen on one (or two) of these but have a few questions first.

1. Are you able to supply and fit the terminals if the additional $8.00 is paid? Or make it $10 for your troubles.

2. How can you access the Attessa bottle behind the Amplifier on the Drivers side?

3. What does the Passenger Sub box attach to and vise versa for the Drivers side?

Really cool enclosure though mate! Will lay down a deposit once I get paid :)

Cheers

At the moment i won't be making a drivers side enclosure until there would be enough interest as it's a very labour intensive process

1. I can fit the terminals no problems($10 all up is fine to install it)

2. The enclosure can be removed quite easily(i dont see you checking the atessa more than once a month)

3. The enclosure uses the stock floor plastic bolts to fasten them down(dogleg brackets are used to do this)

a small metal tag at the top of the box slips underneath the plastic trim to stop it from moving(they are very secure)

Whats your location, and do you know what sort of cost it would be to ship these interstate if required?

I'm in Adelaide

Shipping should be approx $25-$30 to most states as i have sent items of a similar size

cheers,

Pete

Ok 2 enclosures have been completed so far, within the next few days the other 2 should be complete

I'll post some pics of scriblez new enclosure later in the day

Edited by Fgjoh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...