Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys was wondering if any one would be able to fabricate me a rear parcel shelf. I'm after one that has cut outs for four 6x9 speakers/grills. The one I have was botched when my last 6x9s went in (long story). I'm located in hawthorn east melb 3123. If anyone wants to give me a quote or discuss this further please let me know:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385307-custom-rear-parcel-shelf-vic/
Share on other sites

I'm pretty open on price, but in saying that I'm also on a bit of a budget. I was thinking MDF as I thought that would give the best sound. Hadn't thought of alloy. Would that give any significant advantages?

Lighter I guess but I would just get a sheet of MDF, make a cardboard cutout then transfer it, cut the shape out and glue somethng onto it for a cover, perhaps with some padding underneath.

Remove the standard shelf, take off the carpet cover thing, cut a piece of 9mm MDF to it's exact shape, re-fit the vents etc, glue the carpet to the MDF, voila!

Depending on what 6X9's you want to fit will change the required thickness of the spacers. Did mine this exact way and looks exceptional.....

you could always make one up out of mdf & fibreglass n mould the spacers etc into it?

That would be ideally what I'd wanna do. But I'm very limited in my resources and space to do a project like that. And I'd pay through the roof I reckon to get something like that made in a shop.

That would be ideally what I'd wanna do. But I'm very limited in my resources and space to do a project like that. And I'd pay through the roof I reckon to get something like that made in a shop.

post-74990-0-79996600-1323586498_thumb.jpg

Jigsaw, MDF, glue, basic hand tools and time. Large piece of thin foam and some screws if you want to secure it to stop it rattling....

post-74990-0-79996600-1323586498_thumb.jpg

Jigsaw, MDF, glue, basic hand tools and time. Large piece of thin foam and some screws if you want to secure it to stop it rattling....

That looks sweet, I'll have to get started making one of those myself as I've got some 6x9's coming in the mail for me this week. Any tips on making it fit, or would an exact template from the original shelf be fine? What thickness mdf did you use?

That looks sweet, I'll have to get started making one of those myself as I've got some 6x9's coming in the mail for me this week. Any tips on making it fit, or would an exact template from the original shelf be fine? What thickness mdf did you use?

I used the exact cut-out of the factory shelf carpet, and re-fitted the stock vents and rear-wiper motor cover as in the pic. It's made of 9mm, tight fit but sturdy, you could use something thinner though...

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

i made a carbon fibre shelf with mdified VE commodore speaker grills only coast me $150 but did most the work with a drill and a jigsaw:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=431651466922940&set=a.371342039620550.89299.100002342702610&type=3&theater

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...