Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Geeeez it's obviously the coil packs. Just bite the bullet, buy some Splitfires, and enjoy some trouble free motoring for a few more years (or at least until something else breaks!)

Yep, I think you should just replace them. Even if you current issues aren't caused by coilpacks, they will eventually die, every RB25 Neo suffers this problem sooner or later, so you won't be wasting your money anyway, you'll just be acting proactively.

Mine broke down at 60-65 kkm, some may live up to 100 000. Started misfiring under boost, then at lighter loads, then sometimes even refused to fire at idle and obviously missed at cold starts (read bore wash). I changed plugs, that didn't help. Checked coilpack wiring - all good. I picked a set of used coils from my previous engine, used to have 25DE before engine swap, and replaced failing coil. That hepled until next coil started to fail - in less than 1000 km after the first one. Since then I replaced three more coils, and although everything's working fine now, I'm thinking about allocating some money to replace all coils with new ones, just haven't decided what to choose yet - splitfires or a set of new OEMs.

So what could be the issue?? Coilpacks?? I only just taped them- miss was there before- do the couls inside get stuffed??

Coil packs are a likely cause but not necessarily the only one. In my case we chased a similar issue for ages and it turned out to be a busted crank angle sensor (CAS) - ok at low revs but misfire & loss of power at top end. Have a read of this, it's got a bit of a checklist on what to look for:

Resolved Misfire In R34 Gtt - Rb25det Neo

It can certainly be sorted but can be a PITA as there are so many possible causes. Good luck.

Nah thanks Josh, Im selling my OEMs now lol, just ordered the YJs as they have a 2yr warranty and Oz based as opposed to splits bein Jap based and only 6 month warranty plus lot more expensive.. All products have hit n miss bad items btw and both the YJs and Splitfires have numerous happy customers and few dud items too..food for thought.

Got my YJ coils delivered at work today, geez it was only Sunday when I paid Paul from Performance Wise, he is such a top bloke to deal with!

Cant wait to put them on, will post back with results, hopefully it will solve my miss-fire and farting.:worship:

Same as my reply in the other 3409873 thread with this IDENTICAL problem.

Combination of bad spark from bad plugs or bad coils, or more boost meaning a 0.8mm gap is needed or too much boost on stock ecu/tune causing engine to run extra rich (9-10:1) which needs an even stronger spark than stock to avoid getting blown out.

So fix your plugs first, then your coils, then get a remap so you aren't running super dooper rich. One or most of these things will be needed to fix your problem.

So I just had a blast in my 34 after putting in my YJ coil packs yesterday- just SO happy with the difference it made! My previous miss-fire, farting n power loss has gone completely and car just PULLS so hard n clean all the way to redline, just so crisp n beautiful to drive, fat power n torque everywhere, no missing at all and gained a chunky midrange n total response, yes even a 'only 200rwkw' GTT is keeping us grinning for ages like pubescant teens..chirped tires a few times too while driving n turning gradually.. So if you need coil packs, just GO FOR IT, it makes a huge difference if your originals r shagged..

Ur right JEZ, just tossing up between the SS1PU and TD06SL2-20G 10cm housing, do u have good things to say about the Kando, hope u've tuned it past ur initial 9psi and now sliding all the way up your driveway! I'm just deciding if its possible to cut my bellmouth jjr dump n weld a v band adaptor in there as its a circle trying to mate with a bellmouth oval..

Here is an idea - buy a GTX2867 and put it into factory rear housing.

Should be nearly bolt-on installation, possibe to be done with internal wastegate, stealthy, no need to change dump pupe and will easily give you nice and snappy 260-280kw

I have done some calcs. This turbo is going to be great on nearly factory RB25. Tune it up to whatever limit you'll hit first, be it injectors or AFM, and replace limiting parts later.

Edited by Legionnaire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...