Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did look into it and Trent @ Status said it couldn't be done, in addition to Dr Drift also stating it couldn't be done after taking a look at the N/A ECU, apparently the setup of it is different and missing a lot of components that Nistune requires to work.

But if CRD can do it (or anyone), please post here as it massively solves my problem too :P

How long ago did you speak to those tuners about the Nistune on an N/A ecu?

hmmm I also thought Nistune doesn't work for the N/A pinch.gif But CRD are a reputable shop so i guess they'll try hard to do it right! Try Powertune as well, they've done outstanding work on my mates R34 (gtr) but they know their way around and if they don't know something they'll try to get you the best solution :D

good luck!

Thanks mate, I tried calling powertune but the receptionist told me they were too busy to talk and most likely will be until next year so I'll be trying CRD and if no good comes of them I will try Powertune :)

like I said I'm definitely getting a written quote for $1500 just incase of any issues I'll be covered, I don't want that $1500 bill turning into $4000...

I think you will be hard pressed to get something like that in writing. There's so much that could go wrong, and seeing as I don't think NIStune has been done with an NA 34 ECU before, it's simply a lot of experimenting that could end up taking a lot of dyno time.

That said, $1500 is very very expensive for a NIStune tune anyway, so it seems to me that they are factoring in the time that will be taken up in playing such guessing games.

I think you will be hard pressed to get something like that in writing. There's so much that could go wrong, and seeing as I don't think NIStune has been done with an NA 34 ECU before, it's simply a lot of experimenting that could end up taking a lot of dyno time.

That said, $1500 is very very expensive for a NIStune tune anyway, so it seems to me that they are factoring in the time that will be taken up in playing such guessing games.

Nevermind, I called them yesterday to confirm 100% that Nistune could be done on an N/A ecu and they came back after ringing Nistune again and told me there was a miscommunication. So unfortunately still remains it can't be done on the N/A ecu..

I'm starting to think my only way out is a manual conversion now.

Try hitting up Toshi here on the forums to see if the ECU is like an R33 RB25 ECU (he is the one and only person I know of who can do remaps on the standard R33 ECU)?

Kinks, for all that money you're willing to throw around, have you considered manual driving lessons / selling your n/a and buying a turbo etc etc

Try hitting up Toshi here on the forums to see if the ECU is like an R33 RB25 ECU (he is the one and only person I know of who can do remaps on the standard R33 ECU)?

Kinks, for all that money you're willing to throw around, have you considered manual driving lessons / selling your n/a and buying a turbo etc etc

Yeah, I'm a lost cause, I can actually drive a manual.. the inital idea was that a built up auto box was quicker (as in faster) and easier (as in daily driving) and was told that it would be simple and easy to get working.

The reason I didnt buy a turbo initially was that I was actually told it *was* a turbo initially. Except it was a NA+T advertised as a turbo. I would have taken it to court but:

a) I didn't know how much it cost in final monetary value to fix it to get it back to what was advertised (and I still dont)

b) The seller is now deceased

It went in as a "can this be sorted out and legal" and has turned into an epic nightmare full on build that is entirely totally f**ked. Hence my word of warning earlier - get a manual conversion or just DO NOT do this swap, there's literally no real reason to do it, just buy a turbo to begin with.

Either that, or, for those who did o this swap and it is simple and easy, if these forum regulars are willing to document the process so that well known, reputable workshops are able to replicate it I will pay you good money to do so, for everyone's sake :P

yeah I knew it was something to do with the TPS signal - tried crossing wires over once to see if I could just bypass the ECU to get the signal going straight to the ATTESSA computer, but it's a moot point now - the car will be up for sale shortly, and someone else can f**k around with it; the solution I was going to go with in the end was take Microtech out and get a Z32 ECU wired back in, but unfortunately no one in Mildura wants to or knows how to touch imports, wish you'd read my thread back in the day about it dan!

Yeah not on here as much now the R34 is gone......the Spazda is now my daily yawn mobile until my intern year is over. I've been so subdued by it's familiness that I've only just fitted a subwoofer a year on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...