Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Have a few question about the torque gauge in the din pocket? It never seems to do anything? I am wondering if it is not working like when should it come on? when i am doing what and where??

Why such the shit fuel consumption, $100 at the petrol station and only 400km a week. this car is making me need to take out a loan to afford it, haha lucky the government pays for it :) I understand they are a turbo car and all that, but my 300zx twin turbo 3L has a similar tank size and gets and extra 250km plus on fuel, haha better of using that as a daily... Pitty its a show/track car!

Also i have a 2003 M35 i am wondering what standard boost these are running in them from factory? I have not put a boost gauge in to see yet, and unsure what 1bar is?

I have put a Front Mount inter-cooler, and also a 3" dump with a straight through 3" exhaust system the whole way, I am wondering if i should boost it up at all to support the mods or leave it fine, still needs a tune with the supporting mods and was going to see if i boost it up at the same time? Anyone else in this experience please let me know what you have done and also this car is used as a daily driver.

Regards

Matthew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385543-boostfueltorque-gauge/
Share on other sites

I'm assuming our attessa is the same as gtr. They won't give a dash light if there is a little air in the system and it won't show front split on the gauge due to it. It only gives a light when there is a lot of air in it.

Standard boost isn't 1bar either, it's 13PSI on an RS/RX and ~15PSI on an AR-X/AXIS I believe.

Matt, did you try locking the diffs? That always shows torque being driven to the front wheels when I do it.

Other than that mine never moved until I did the exhaust, and now it always dances around corners :devil:

But still no movement in a straight line, unless I lock them.

Other than that mine never moved until I did the exhaust, and now it always dances around corners :devil:

But still no movement in a straight line, unless I lock them.

That's really strange, mine rockets straight up in straight lines but around corners it's glued to the 0.

It's quite an interesting system; on one of my local roads, a constant radius left, there's a dip, then a rise right after.

When going 80km/h and above; the gauge flicks right to the top just as the car goes over the rise. No loss of traction, but it's obviously semi-predictive. In the wet, I'm sure you could slide the car sideways over the rise; as it unloads the suspension.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...