Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Adam. All 4 speakers *sounded* OK.

What do you mean exactly by checking the polarity. I assume neither the negative will have 100% continuity to earth/chassis, nor would the power have 100% 12-14v when measured to chassis/earth?

I normally use an AA battery; positive on the battery to positive on the speaker will push the cone out, positive to negative will pull the cone in.

As AAT said; just a quick touch on the leads, so you don't damage the voice coil.

Edited by Daleo

I normally use an AA battery; positive on the battery to positive on the speaker will push the cone out, positive to negative will pull the cone in.

As AAT said; just a quick touch on the leads, so you don't damage the voice coil.

you got it thats what i do when you r at the headunit. but if you r at the speaker you cant do it so you use a multimeter but your right i do about 6 headunits a day battery works great

Thanks Adam. All 4 speakers *sounded* OK.

What do you mean exactly by checking the polarity. I assume neither the negative will have 100% continuity to earth/chassis, nor would the power have 100% 12-14v when measured to chassis/earth?

speakers will never be 12 to 14v and the raido swaps power down both wires usually around 1.5v so one wire could be .5v and the other earth then it might swap depending on what sound it needed to make thats why all speakers have + and - you might not notice it strait away but try something reeeely bassey and if you hear puck puck puck instead of doof doof swap the wires

that bit's cool, the + and - are clear on the speaker. I just don't know about the car's loom. Should I just check continuity to earth from each wire?

Lol, yeah; I normally do it from the head unit end of the speaker wiring, that way you know you've got it right.

I don't think testing speaker wiring to earth will work.

OK they all sound good....to be honest I thought a backwards doof would sound like food :teehee:

Star33...I did not replace the a piller speakers, I was only replacing the door ones because they had phyiscally died...was not really after the ful sik-est sounding car around.

OK they all sound good....to be honest I thought a backwards doof would sound like food :teehee:

Star33...I did not replace the a piller speakers, I was only replacing the door ones because they had phyiscally died...was not really after the ful sik-est sounding car around.

Hahaa food na you don't check them to earth you put the multimeter on volts and put the two wires on the meter to the two wires for the speaker and it should say on the meter witch is witch

  • 1 year later...

Series 2 drivers door trim should have about 3 screws across the bottom, one under a cap mid door under the controls, one in the pocket. The door handle/lever trim will pop out with a carefully placed screwdriver under the lever surround near the front. From memory the controls with also pop out with a carefully placed flat screwdriver but I would removed the other screws and there should be enough play to remove the loom plug without removing the controls.

It has been so long since I did it that I can't remember all the steps. I presume there should be more detailed instructions in the DIY section or if it fails then look in the general DIY section. The search button is your friend, make sure you have a search since it will almost certainly have been covered before.

the window switch just pops out. can use a knife or flat screw driver.

might be a screw under the black button thing too, the cover will just pop off.

the panel itself just clip on. grab it at the bottom corner where the speaker is and pull gently to unclip them, then just work your way around the rest of them,

maybe a screw in the handles too.

Edited by Nadnerb
  • 3 years later...
9 minutes ago, GoldZilla said:

It is.

By the way, when people say 6" or 6.5", they mean the same thing. Depends on how pedantic the person saying it is.

I totally went out and bought 6.5" went to chuck them in the front and they were still too small! so I was like what the heck.. and thought well I might as well still get use out of them and put em in the back.

Took off the back door panels and... turns out you're supposed to have brackets in the front..
So who ever thought it was smart to remove the front brackets or adapter things just made me have to run off to a parts place who had a stagea. Got there but there was only one front door so tried taking the bracket thing off and gave up after stripping the screws ://. 
Ended up finding some old Primera there and taking their brackets and just hoped they'd fit as they look the same in shape (they weren't >.<) The holes were a little too close together but I made it work!

And........ the front right speaker doesn't seem to wanna work after all of that. Maybe the wire is loose at the back of the head unit...

Oh! and does anyone know how to unclip those damn connectors that are used for the window switches and just about every other thing on this car!?!?! Driving me nuts.

 

FYI: This is how a 16 year old kid approached this situation :D

IMG_2391.JPG

IMG_2392.JPG

IMG_2396.JPG

Edited by slimjezuz
Spelling and sentence structure sucks!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...