Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your compression is low man, that is a tired motor. did you do the test warm? That rich cylinder could be three things. Unlikely, but maybe all other five are not flowing. Maybe that one injector is worn out. But what I think is the injector o rings may be work and it's leaking fuel into that cylinder which may well and truly explain your start too issues, the cylinder might be flooding with fuel when your motor is off. You aren't misfiring when you turn your wheel, or on idle. That pop you hear is a lean pop and is very normal if you are running close to stoich fuel mixes.

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the car was not cold but had been sitting for about 15 mins.

the car does have starting issues usually when running before hand so a leaky injector may be present. the fouled plug wasnt on a low compression cylinder

also is it common to have 3 at exactly one compression and the following 3 to have identical lower compressions?

and no the car isnt misfiring when i turn the wheel (it does hiccup a tad on idle which an injector may explain?)

it missfires on boost when turning a corner, the harder the more evident (or just after turning, straighten up... hit boost... misfire ... get thrusted forward and back when it hits boost again, very unsatisfying)

the cornering thing realy confuses me, i was thinking something may be loose like the bosh 440?

ok well i suppose i should start by checking the fuel pressure, where do i get the fitting for the fuel pressure tester (work will have the tester)

i need to chase this backwards to find the fault i guess? where should i start for easy or telltale signs? ie, injectors easy to test or fuel pump easy to check out? a bit lost here sory guys but any help will be appreciated.

i will not be fixing this i will most probably get a shop to FIX things properly but i wanna cut down on time and money on diagnostics, but help is appreciated.

Ok I have removed the boost controller.

Boost has gone from about .9bar to about .4-.5bar (quick spin around the block)

Will take it fr a decent drive tonight and see how she reacts now, see if any issue goes away.

Also f**kibg hatin the screamer pipe now that the wastegate opens so early :P

Ok on the drive home the car is allot enter at the mug lower boost level. Even the weird cornering and high load miss fire is gone.

NOW I don't know if this is normal but it stays at a smudge under .5bar from 4000rpm - 6000rpm but then it pushes us to about .7bar on full throttle and I got a misfire at that level too.

Is the actuator/ wastegate failing?

Also I'm still suspecting a fuel pressure issue due to the higher boost levels cannot hold properly

With the black spark plug, idel misfire and trouble warm starting.... Should I be suspecting a valve problem perhaps?

Edited by GH05T

i had a similar problem for me it was the injectors,when you pull each cylinder coil out one at a time and put them back to see the idle change as a cylinder stops getting spark cylinder 4,5 where not working after testing everything it was the injectors,they worked but not properly for some weird reason and there newish i hope this might help.i replaced them and its 100%

Edited by WARLORD

To be honest, I'm suspecting the head unfortunatly

It would explains te misfire, low comp (even though it's weird that 3 clys are on 130 exactly and three are on 112 exactly) the fouled plug, the hard start on warm especially.

So yeah mightn't be a quick fix

Edited by GH05T
  • 2 weeks later...

Speaking of the igniter, this was interesting... I pulled the spark plugs out again recently to do a comp test but also to check their condition...(no1 plug black again the rest fine so that's not changed)

But I found what looks like a ground wire from the igniter, or at least loom which was broken and not grounded. I have re grounded it which unfortunately made no difference. But what would this be for? Igniter? Does it make a diff that is has not been connected?

ca4e92df.jpg

06f62b3d.jpg

Hmmm, well it defiantly hasn't bolted down or earthed properly until now. Dunno how long that wire has been broken for and how long it has been unearthed for.

Would this have caused some damage maby. Maby it really is time for a new ignitor.

Surprised that when I earthed it properly that their was no change,mor that being unearthed didn't cause more dramas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...