Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would love the : inner splash guard/wheel arches. are they the front and back pieces?.. thanx.. sent a pm. but maby my pm thing isent working :(

sweet. if you have both ill take both.. if you only have the back.. should be okish.. i think i found a guy wit the fronts and brake ducts ;).. thanx.. let me know when its all good to setup for the inner guards..:)

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll take pics over the weekend, The quality, badges, grill all indicate it is 100% genuine tommy kiara. I bought it though import monster/yahoo japan years ago (for double the asking price)

R33 GTR Guards, with guard raisers, indicators and badges $450

R33 GTR Bonnet, with bonnet hinges & latch $400

R33 GTR Inner splash guard/wheel arches $150

R33 GTR N1 front reo, slightly bent on passenger side $150

R33 GTR Tommy Kiara GTR front bar, brand new genuine TK, $600 < forgot to mension it is painted in QM1 white

Set of Yokohama S-drives 265/35/R18 $650 set of four.

R32 GTR front windscreen non genuine, new $150. (cannot post this one)

Addd - R33 GTST Series 2 steering wheel and airbag, red stitching, couple of marks on the wheel but otherwise in good condition. $150

R33 GTR S3 steering wheel, with airbag $SOLD

R33 GTR resistor injector pack (with bracket) $SOLD

  • 2 weeks later...

Can I have better photos of the TK front bar with the badges. The picture you took is missing the badge.

R33 GTR Guards, with guard raisers, indicators and badges $540

R33 GTR Bonnet, with bonnet hinges & latch $450

R33 GTR Inner splash guard/wheel arches $150

R33 GTR N1 front reo, slightly bent on passenger side $150

R33 GTR Tommy Kiara GTR front bar, brand new genuine TK, $600

R33 GTR S3 steering wheel, with airbag $180

R33 GTR resistor injector pack (with bracket) $80

Set of Yokohama S-drives 265/35/R18 $700 set of four.

R32 GTR front windscreen non genuine, new $150. (cannot post this one)

Hey mate, I'm keen on the R32 GT-R windscreen....... Does it have a tinted top band or clear all the way through?

What suburb are you in? I'm in the Hills District........

Cheers...... Bob.

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry Bob havent been on here in a while. I will check tonight and let you know. From memory it is clear. I am a few mins from Parramatta.

Everything is still avaliable except S3 gtr s/wheel and resistor pack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...