Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would love the : inner splash guard/wheel arches. are they the front and back pieces?.. thanx.. sent a pm. but maby my pm thing isent working :(

sweet. if you have both ill take both.. if you only have the back.. should be okish.. i think i found a guy wit the fronts and brake ducts ;).. thanx.. let me know when its all good to setup for the inner guards..:)

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll take pics over the weekend, The quality, badges, grill all indicate it is 100% genuine tommy kiara. I bought it though import monster/yahoo japan years ago (for double the asking price)

R33 GTR Guards, with guard raisers, indicators and badges $450

R33 GTR Bonnet, with bonnet hinges & latch $400

R33 GTR Inner splash guard/wheel arches $150

R33 GTR N1 front reo, slightly bent on passenger side $150

R33 GTR Tommy Kiara GTR front bar, brand new genuine TK, $600 < forgot to mension it is painted in QM1 white

Set of Yokohama S-drives 265/35/R18 $650 set of four.

R32 GTR front windscreen non genuine, new $150. (cannot post this one)

Addd - R33 GTST Series 2 steering wheel and airbag, red stitching, couple of marks on the wheel but otherwise in good condition. $150

R33 GTR S3 steering wheel, with airbag $SOLD

R33 GTR resistor injector pack (with bracket) $SOLD

  • 2 weeks later...

Can I have better photos of the TK front bar with the badges. The picture you took is missing the badge.

R33 GTR Guards, with guard raisers, indicators and badges $540

R33 GTR Bonnet, with bonnet hinges & latch $450

R33 GTR Inner splash guard/wheel arches $150

R33 GTR N1 front reo, slightly bent on passenger side $150

R33 GTR Tommy Kiara GTR front bar, brand new genuine TK, $600

R33 GTR S3 steering wheel, with airbag $180

R33 GTR resistor injector pack (with bracket) $80

Set of Yokohama S-drives 265/35/R18 $700 set of four.

R32 GTR front windscreen non genuine, new $150. (cannot post this one)

Hey mate, I'm keen on the R32 GT-R windscreen....... Does it have a tinted top band or clear all the way through?

What suburb are you in? I'm in the Hills District........

Cheers...... Bob.

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry Bob havent been on here in a while. I will check tonight and let you know. From memory it is clear. I am a few mins from Parramatta.

Everything is still avaliable except S3 gtr s/wheel and resistor pack.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...