Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

An I better of having a new dump and plumbed pipe made? Or bought whatever's easier?

I prefer to have things done properly myself, I don't know much about the pipe work but gauging the last reactions I dont want something "falling off"

The problem you have is that you have a TDO5. So there are no off the shelf dumps available (or, at least, if there are they're nowhere near as common and easy to get hold of as for Hitachi turbos). Which means that you're looking at a custom dump, which just makes it that bit more expensive to get done than buying a cheapy from JJR etc.

My main complaint about the dump and screamer that you have is that the design is woeful (sharp elbow changes of direction, poor welding, what the hel is going on with that screamer just poked in the exhaust housing with no apparent fasteners!!??!!) and will negatively impact on how well the turbo works (will raise boost threshold and reduce total power by some amounts). Nicer dumps are nicer. Plus there is the risk that that screamer might fall out, depending on exactly how it is held in there!

Actually I gues it's just that pipe that needs remaking properly and plumbing into the dump?

Also for now I assume, aslong as it dosnt leak at the outlet, that welding it into the dump will even be enought to make sure it dosnt move anywhere or come away from the turbo, atleast it will be legal for the time being

I think the best way would be to buy a bellmouth dump pipe and fit it yourself. Done and done.

1. It will work

2. Split dump pipes still have that whoosh whoosh sounds with stock turbos that sounds hella ghey - bellmouth do not. Also bellmouth do not have the potential boost control issues inherent to the split dump design.

Theirs no point I. Making a new topic.

What can ya tell me about the TD05 turbo? Is it a good choice is it a bottom or top end turbo anything I should know or a thread I should be reading?

the outlet flange on that turbo is not T25 so finding a flange to bolt to the turbo is going to be the hardest part, you need to find out what bolt pattern it is and have dump pipe made

the waste gate pipe that is there now is leaking, you can tell by the soot around the pipe, and that is with no back pressure as it is a screamer, so if you just weld it into the exhaust that leak will only get worse unless you find a way of sealing it properly

Another thing you could do is rip off the TD05, sell it, replace it with a high flowed factory turbo, then use an off the shelf dump pipe, put a stock intake pipe, BOV return pipe and crankcase ventilation setup on, get it tuned again (You were talking about getting your tune looked at once you had fixed the miss fire anyway) and there ya go.

Now sounds like a lot of work, and well it is. However, it will erase the getting defected for an after market turbo part completely as you cannot tell a high flow turbo from just looking at it. And if you do ever get defected to regency for what ever reason, they wont even know you have a high flowed turbo either. However they are smart enough to pick up on the Z32 AFM, but all you simply do is remove the sticker.

That dump/screamer pipe is shocking aswell.

Just another option

It must be internally welded. There is nothing wrong with the td05 tho a td06 would be better is it kando branded? The if you wanted everything re made it will cost a few hundred the dump should be a 3 bolt flange. I would get the screemer cut where that angle is and put a flange there then weld the pipe to the housing that way its sealed and removable then get the screemer plumbed in from that flange back. Don't go stainless makes no difference and ends up looking like mild steel after a good serving also can hurt the pocket.

It must be internally welded. There is nothing wrong with the td05 tho a td06 would be better is it kando branded? The if you wanted everything re made it will cost a few hundred the dump should be a 3 bolt flange. I would get the screemer cut where that angle is and put a flange there then weld the pipe to the housing that way its sealed and removable then get the screemer plumbed in from that flange back. Don't go stainless makes no difference and ends up looking like mild steel after a good serving also can hurt the pocket.

It must be internally welded. There is nothing wrong with the td05 tho a td06 would be better is it kando branded? The if you wanted everything re made it will cost a few hundred the dump should be a 3 bolt flange. I would get the screemer cut where that angle is and put a flange there then weld the pipe to the housing that way its sealed and removable then get the screemer plumbed in from that flange back. Don't go stainless makes no difference and ends up looking like mild steel after a good serving also can hurt the pocket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...