What Is This Part?

[W0rp3D]

Had some problems with leaking water hoses, long story short i want to get rid of some hoses.

1) first i need to know what the part circled in red is/does and if i can bypass it

2) secondly the hose that goes into it is T'd off one of the heater hoses and then ends by being T'd back into the other heater hose(traced in blue), if i can bypass the part circled in red and delete all of the hard pipe that runs along the block do i still need a hose going between both heater hoses?

Any help would be appreciated

[Bsa]

dont revove that unless you get a sandwich plate and oil cooler

[W0rp3D]

Leaving it there is not the problem, I just want to bypass it so it does not have water going through it.

[89CAL]

Stock Oil cooler. I'd just replace the hoses

[JonnoHR31]

yep leave it as standard, it might not be the greatest setup but it does help with oil temps a bit

[W0rp3D]

not the answers i wanted to hear but i can work with, i have a sandwich plate coming already so i could run an external cooler or i could still run new main hoses with a couple of T's to allow me to delete the hard pipe and make things simpler.

Thanks for the info guys.

[NoFigJamHere]

Mate its actually called a "Heat exchanger" its function is to get the oil and water temps as close to one another as possible. The Nismo oil cooler kit actually gets rid of the part altogether,but it also has a thermostat that by passes the oil cooler until oil gets hot enuff.. if you run both an oil cooletr and H-E sometimes the car runs too cold or takes forever to warm up. Most modern race cars (circuit) run H-E not to runn cooler but to run even water/oil temps. Dont know if that helps with your decision but if ur running an oil cooler and wont be doing much track work just take notice of ur oil n water temps and then decide whats best. ideally u want oil and water around 80-90deg.

[W0rp3D]

I want to do a couple of track days but in general its just a street car, with that info tho I think I will forget about getting an external cooler for now and just use a couple of T's and still run the HE.

80-90 degrees? My car normally sits at low 70's and high 70's when I give it some stick

[JonnoHR31]

all the more reason to keep the standard oil cooler. if your coolant temps are low you can safely assume your oil temps should be pretty good. mynes fairly similar to yours (low 70s) and i run slightly thinner oil than everyone else because it never gets hot enough

[mystery_kid]

not really sure why you want to stuff around with changing what is under there

just replace the hoses and hose clamps and it will last you longer than you will have the car

[W0rp3D]

The standard ones are in a prick of a position, I know once replaced they will last forever but also there molded so would have to get them from Nissan $$$, the hard pipe is corroded so I want to get rid of that too.

[mystery_kid]

well matey do you want your car to not blow up or what?

sometimes you have to spend cash

[W0rp3D]

well matey do you want your car to not blow up or what?

sometimes you have to spend cash

LOL, there is more than one way to skin a cat, think outside the box!

[D.I.Y. Mik]

Well then you need the tools, materials and a bit of imagination.

You could relocate it with bends and hose.

Try a plumbing shop. Copper water pipe is rated to very high pressure.

There is heaps of stuff you can do with copper pipe and hundreds of different fittings for it.

Get it all worked out and get someone with an oxy to solder it for you.

Then you dont need $$$ nissan hoses HOWEVER.... do the maths you will probably find all the messing around gets expensive too.

Deleting it with custom bits is by far the cheapest option

Major hint when doing this kinda stuff

Keep it simple.

[W0rp3D]

Well then you need the tools, materials and a bit of imagination.

You could relocate it with bends and hose.

Try a plumbing shop. Copper water pipe is rated to very high pressure.

There is heaps of stuff you can do with copper pipe and hundreds of different fittings for it.

Get it all worked out and get someone with an oxy to solder it for you.

Then you dont need $$ nissan hoses HOWEVER.... do the maths you will probably find all the messing around gets expensive too.

Deleting it with custom bits is by far the cheapest option

Major hint when doing this kinda stuff

Keep it simple.

I am keeping it simple, you just made it more complicated than the factory setup, there will be no custom copper or welding or a plumbers shop, the whole idea is to replace items that are unique to this setup and therefore need to be ordered through nissan with off the shelf items that can be bought at any parts store.

The plan is simply to run one hose from the front of the block to the heater (either join up to the existing hose or one off the shelf item) with a T piece which when put in the right place in the hose would then just require one straight hose to supply water to the heat exchanger, if pressure is a problem i know you can get a long wire coil thing (dont know its name or if it even has one) that goes on the out side of the hose and stops the hose from expanding too much, that solution on its own deletes the hard line that runs along the block and brings it out from the block for east access if i ever need to get to it again.

Now that i think of it if i did go the copper line route then it would simply be one straight piece of copper pipe with a smaller T piece welded 2/3's of the way along for the heat exchanger feed, thats just as easy but less parts, probably cheaper too just need some one to weld one join.

As i said there is more than one way to skin a cat.

[bubba]

Those coil wire things you speak of are not to handle more pressure, they are to ensure a nice bend when using tight radii with straight hoses.

In my 32 I ran my own completely new heater hoses using brass barbed fittings where I needed really tight bends and unicoils elsewhere (instead of using more barbed 90deg fittings and introducing more possibly failure points).