Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes,

I did these things before but not on a Skyline. (on MacPherson struts)

You start on one small thing, and in the end you rip the whole car apart.

With the Skyline's suspension matters seem to be a bit less painful though. :)

Lol, I see you've done this before...whistling.gif

Once you have the Whiteline bars, this is always something you can add at a later date.thumbsup.gif

Edited by Torques
  • 4 weeks later...

Yes, I did this before ... alas not on a Skyline.

It's mostly the same story, you start a small thing and 'while at it' you start other sub-projects since it all is conveniently taken apart anyhow :)

Someone told me that the adjustable bars may be problematic due to the fact that the angle to the link may become extreme.

Is this an issue?

Thaaanks!

Lol, I see you've done this before...whistling.gif

Once you have the Whiteline bars, this is always something you can add at a later date.thumbsup.gif

Yes, I did this before ... alas not on a Skyline.

It's mostly the same story, you start a small thing and 'while at it' you start other sub-projects since it all is conveniently taken apart anyhow :)

Someone told me that the adjustable bars may be problematic due to the fact that the angle to the link may become extreme.

Is this an issue?

Thaaanks!

Yep, I hear you there...whistling.gif

The Whiteline bars go through a lot of initial testing; and the parts you'd be looking to fit have been around for a while now, so that's a hell of a lot of cars doing "in the field" testing.

If there were any issues; I can assure you that Whiteline would've long ago spotted and corrected any potential problems.thumbsup.gif

I haven't personally fitted a set of Adjustable bars to an R33; but I have on an R34, which shares the same suspension architecture. I had no issues with alignment or fitting.

Bearing in mind the distance between the two adjustment holes on a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ is only 20-30mm; and the point where the OEM link would sits, is right between the two; misalignment is negligble.

BNR11XXZ.jpgBNR11XXZ-2.jpg

With regard to the BNF24Z; it has 4 adjustment holes.

The rear two, fall directly below the OEM link position (with the same centreing and 20-30mm spacing as the rear). The front two adjustment hole are accessed by flipping the link around to face the front; so the link alignment is retained. This is why there is a larger gap between the two centre adjustment hole in the pic below.

BNF24Z.jpg

Hopefully this answers your questions.thumbsup.gif

Hello there,

Thanks for the explanation and pictures, much appreciated.

So compared to the OEM part the holes are either more 'left' or 'right' ?

Is this the same with the non adjustable bar?

Daleo, can I ask if these whiteline swaybars have much effect on the way the car rides over normal bumps and undulations when driving straight? Or does a mod like this only really get noticed when cornering hard? What I mean is, would stiffer swaybars make a car more rough riding when just pootling around town or would you only really notice when fanging the car in the mountains?

Daleo, can I ask if these whiteline swaybars have much effect on the way the car rides over normal bumps and undulations when driving straight? Or does a mod like this only really get noticed when cornering hard? What I mean is, would stiffer swaybars make a car more rough riding when just pootling around town or would you only really notice when fanging the car in the mountains?

They do make a difference you can feel; but I wouldn't say it is a negative change.

Over single wheel bumps (potholes driveways) you do notice; because you are effectively increasing the spring rate of that wheel. This generally manifests as additional resistance to bottoming out and slightly firmer feeling suspension.

Over two wheel bumps (undulations and speed humps) you won't notice them at all; because the bar is unloaded, and just effectively floating.

Bars generally don't make the car ride rougher around town; in fact after adding heavier bars to my car, I was able to significantly soften the damping of my coilovers. This is because I didn't need to use the damping to cover up the sloppy response on turn in. I've had similar feedback from other people who've fitted bars.

So the end result in my case; was a more supple compliant car, that was much more able to follow the contours of a corner, rather than just crashing over them. Smoother, quieter, and above all shitloads quicker and composed in corners.

That's a win-win in my book.thumbsup.gif

Yep, I hear you there...whistling.gif

The Whiteline bars go through a lot of initial testing; and the parts you'd be looking to fit have been around for a while now, so that's a hell of a lot of cars doing "in the field" testing.

If there were any issues; I can assure you that Whiteline would've long ago spotted and corrected any potential problems.thumbsup.gif

I haven't personally fitted a set of Adjustable bars to an R33; but I have on an R34, which shares the same suspension architecture. I had no issues with alignment or fitting.

Bearing in mind the distance between the two adjustment holes on a BNR11XZ or BNR11XXZ is only 20-30mm; and the point where the OEM link would sits, is right between the two; misalignment is negligble.

BNR11XXZ.jpgBNR11XXZ-2.jpg

With regard to the BNF24Z; it has 4 adjustment holes.

The rear two, fall directly below the OEM link position (with the same centreing and 20-30mm spacing as the rear). The front two adjustment hole are accessed by flipping the link around to face the front; so the link alignment is retained. This is why there is a larger gap between the two centre adjustment hole in the pic below.

BNF24Z.jpg

Hopefully this answers your questions.thumbsup.gif

hey just haveing a read i have a R34 i installed both these sway bars today went in peace of cake best bang for ur buck thing to do i also brought them of this guy with no problems i can upload some pics of them in if it helps you decide :)

rear is piss eazy just drop ur exhaust down and it simple swap front i needed to drop the caster arms down to get to a bolt apart from that its ezy

hey just haveing a read i have a R34 i installed both these sway bars today went in peace of cake best bang for ur buck thing to do i also brought them of this guy with no problems i can upload some pics of them in if it helps you decide :)

rear is piss eazy just drop ur exhaust down and it simple swap front i needed to drop the caster arms down to get to a bolt apart from that its ezy

Hey Cody, Glad everything went well mate. Thanks for the feedback mate; really appreciate the kind words.:thumbsup:

Having to remove the caster rods is the only frustrating part of the job really; but no other way to get at that saddle bolt.:spank:

Cheers, Dale.

  • 10 months later...

Can confirm that rear 32 GTR sway bar will fit 32 gtst, fronts how ever will not.

I found this out after dropping castors arms and trying to fit gtr bar and there is no way said bar will fit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...