Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey

Copyme if you claim to have 400kw + at the wheels then why didn't you try drag me a couple weeks ago. I saw you boosting around with that crazy Honda S2000 with the number plate phonix. I was in the blue R33 if you remember. anyway from the way you were pulling away from me it almost looked impossible for you to have that much power cause you were just barely pulling on me and i only got 209.9kw. WHen we got to line up you didn't even try and drag and then once i slowed down you zoom past me. whats up with that?

Hey  

Copyme if you claim to have 400kw + at the wheels then why didn't you try drag me a couple weeks ago. I saw you boosting around with that crazy Honda S2000 with the number plate phonix. I was in the blue R33 if you remember. anyway from the way you were pulling away from me it almost looked impossible for you to have that much power cause you were just barely pulling on me and i only got 209.9kw. WHen we got to line up you didn't even try and drag and then once i slowed down you zoom past me. whats up with that?

perhaps if he is like me, he doesnt want to drag EVERY boy racer who pulls up next to him.

I had some moron stop (yes, complete stop) in the middle of traffic in Elizabeth yesterday, wait for me to get up alongside him and wanted to drag!

not calling you directly a boyracer, but there are a lot of like minded imbeciles on the road, who have something to proove at every red light, regardless of what they have pulled up next to.

perhaps if he is like me, he doesnt want to drag EVERY boy racer who pulls up next to him.

I had some moron stop (yes, complete stop) in the middle of traffic in Elizabeth yesterday, wait for me to get up alongside him and wanted to drag!  

not calling you directly a boyracer, but there are a lot of like minded imbeciles on the road, who have something to proove at every red light, regardless of what they have pulled up next to.

good post.

This thread really is taking on the proportions of a witch hunt.

Hey  

Copyme if you claim to have 400kw + at the wheels then why didn't you try drag me a couple weeks ago. I saw you boosting around with that crazy Honda S2000 with the number plate phonix. I was in the blue R33 if you remember. anyway from the way you were pulling away from me it almost looked impossible for you to have that much power cause you were just barely pulling on me and i only got 209.9kw. WHen we got to line up you didn't even try and drag and then once i slowed down you zoom past me. whats up with that?

Well i have the Dyno sheets to prove what i have at the wheels. I go cruising with those boys heaps, and well i cant remember another particular R33 wanting to drag. sorry. No offence but i probably didn't think you were enough of a challenge.

Iam back on my P-plates now and am trying to keep my license this time.

Hey  

Copyme if you claim to have 400kw + at the wheels then why didn't you try drag me a couple weeks ago. I saw you boosting around with that crazy Honda S2000 with the number plate phonix. I was in the blue R33 if you remember. anyway from the way you were pulling away from me it almost looked impossible for you to have that much power cause you were just barely pulling on me and i only got 209.9kw. WHen we got to line up you didn't even try and drag and then once i slowed down you zoom past me. whats up with that?

Dominik, if you want to have a drag, and have me blow ur doors off, PM during the week and we can organise a time and place to go for a quarter mile street run. Up to you dude if your trying to discredit me.

I'd hate to know exactly how much, I was working on the theory that there is too much porn on the internet, so I am going to download it all and save the rest of you. (You have to love unlimited broadband connections ) - not that ADSL crap:-)

COPY ME

I've e-mail and PMed you before, about more details on your Car.....yet no reply.

The information required for anyone contemplating purchase is lacking.

These days to buy a GTR's is cheap and they are as common as horse S##T.

But to transform a GTR into a real and unique car (in my terms) can be expensive, time consuming, but above all annoying, due to the assholes you have to deal with along the way and in the industry.

But consider this...on a car that is becoming COMMON the more you've spent the more you will lose....and depreciation sets in rapidly as time passes. You have to have a passion and a willingness to accept loss, when time comes to sell.

My TOYS are two at the moment.

A MY 2000 STI..... costs...about $80,000 to buy and modify (market value $36K to $40k)

A R33 GTR v-spec..... costs...stop counting (time is pissing me off)

The move to the GTR was for greater power satisfying potential (headroom).

Thinking out aloud here....I should have stroked the STI, then modified the box.

Have looked at an STI plus $50k changeover on a R34 vspec II in the Unique Mag, but only get secondhand information of interest from some empolyee and no definate answer.

Approached another MELB. dealer who also advertised a Ti. color R34 vspec with 6000k's on the clock at $89k....they never e-mailed me anything.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS INDUSTRY

No promises....but seriously more information on your Car.

A mutual price is only relevant to the facts.

[email protected]

COPY ME

I've e-mail and PMed you before, about more details on your Car.....yet no reply.

The information required for anyone contemplating purchase is lacking.

These days to buy a GTR's is cheap and they are as common as horse S##T.

But to transform a GTR into a real and unique car (in my terms) can be expensive, time consuming, but above all annoying, due to the assholes you have to deal with along the way and in the industry.

But consider this...on a car that is becoming COMMON the more you've spent the more you will lose....and depreciation sets in rapidly as time passes. You have to have a passion and a willingness to accept loss, when time comes to sell.

My TOYS are two at the moment.

A MY 2000 STI..... costs...about $80,000 to buy and modify (market value $36K to $40k)

A R33 GTR v-spec..... costs...stop counting (time is pissing me off)

The move to the GTR was for greater power satisfying potential (headroom).

Thinking out aloud here....I should have stroked the STI, then modified the box.

Have looked at an STI plus $50k changeover on a R34 vspec II in the Unique Mag, but only get secondhand information of interest from some empolyee and no definate answer.

Approached another MELB. dealer who also advertised a Ti. color R34 vspec with 6000k's on the clock at $89k....they never e-mailed me anything.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS INDUSTRY

No promises....but seriously more information on your Car.

A mutual price is only relevant to the facts.

[email protected]

Sorry i Hav'nt got an e-mail from you or a PM?! R34 GTR are not going to be a common skyline for atleast a few years, due to the restrictions on importing and lack of compliance (Bullshit!)

The blue R34 GTR V-spec II in Melbourne, is actually just a GTR, that has had a v-spec II bonnet put on it. Take it for a drive and you can tell that the vehicle has been severly crashed and had afront cut welded on to replace the damage. (Not the greatest repair job either). Pop the bonnet and you will see the non-nissan replacement parts and the bog under the radiator supports.

I have e-mailed you some pics and a list of whats been done, aswell as my contact number.

The Silver R34 GTR in Melbourne with 6000kms or so on it, is a completely standard V-spec non a bad car either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...