Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest two.06l

over the last 3-4 months i have noticed a decline in the quality and consistency in shell optimax fuel.just switched to mobil sygnergy 8000 and the difference is unbelieveable.Able to run more timing and boost without a hint of detonation has this stuff been kept a secret or am i just ignorant of its existence or use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38750-optimax-fuel-quality/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It was proven many years ago that optimax was only good for 2 weeks... Before its oct whould drop down to around the 94-93 mark... Making it about the same as regular....

It would be impossible to get pure fresh optimax.... Unless you work for shell and are getting it straight from the 500million litre tanks.......

I noticed the same thing at Eastern Creek on Monday. Took the car for a spin with a tank full of BP Ultimate. At around 3pm I went out to refill at the nearest petrol station (Shell). Went back to the track with exactly the same car settings for a couple more sessions. I noticed that it was running roughly. I couldn't think of anything else other than the Optimax causing this.

while in adelaide i always used bp ultimate, as we dont have optimax. Mobil 8000 isnt as common in SA and we have the idea that it doesnt get much of a turnover so we dont really use that either. When i first brought the car up to sydney i filled it with optimax and i certainly noticed less power plus it just didnt run as clean or strong. So far havent been dissappointed with ultimate.

whats the bottom line with fuel going "off"? in my understanding that would be dropping its octane level. Ive heard that sitting for even a month or 2 can have it go down. Where does this 1 year thing come from?

optimax is a molecule expanded fuel that means they start with 92 ulp and play around (wont go into details, boring stuff) and make it reach 98... whereas mobile and bp fuels are initially refined to 98 octane they are not expanded... thus optimax is more unstable on a molecular level and more vunerable to chemical reactions such as reactions with oxygen, which is evident in the tanker trucks that trasport fuel and even in your fuel tank... optimax thus will only last a month max in your tank before significantly degrading itself...id expect bp to last 9-12 months before the same processes. bottom line optimax is way crappier, but is good if you use it straight away and it freshish off the supplier..

Yep noticed much the same as everyone has previously stated. I had, and I do mean HAD to fill up, and the only fuel that was around was optimax, didn't want to use it but yeah nothing else around, so I decided that I would only put $10 in just to get me to where I knew the next BP was. And I swear that 40min drive was so shitful, the car almost stalled so many times coming up to lights and just ideling at the lights, couldn't work out WTF was wrong only conclusion that I could draw was that the change in fuel didn't agree with my car and tune. Filled up at BP, full tank still ran like a bag of shit for another 15min then cleared up and was sweet. Never using optimax again.

I filled up Optimax only whenever I got that 4c dicsount coupons from Coles (being dirty old, tight ass Thursday petrolhead :)) Shell is on my way home from work

When I have no coupons I went a bit further down the road (100m) for BP Ultimate....

Never pay attention to any differences between the two, but I use up a full tank of Optimax in around 7-10 days anyway so may not feel the effect of the fuel going off before the next refill anyway. Car is my daily driver to work and my shopping cart too.

Also, I found km per tanks is not a difference between BP & Optimax, just a matter of how heavy my right foot is. Turned off my boost controller (stock boost) and drive below 2500rpm since last month, now I refill every 10 days instead of 7 days as I used to be.

Hey, more $$$ for future mods :)

i once used the octane booster, car felt much more smooth

..

Some brands of Octane booster is known to cause your plugs to foul, causing it not to perform 100% and may lead to engine damage in the long run.

I would stay away from them, unless I really have to use it, e.g. in the outback where no premiums available.

yes, shell is crap. bp is the gear.

imho,

shell opticrap < mobil synergy 8000 < bp ultimate

:werd: Altho I've never been able to notice a more than negligible difference between Mobil 8000 and Ultimate. For some reason I prefer Ultimate tho.

As s13drifter began to explain, the reason to stay away from Opticrap is the fact that they achieve the 98 octance via the use of additives which expand the molecules, rather than refining it for a 98 octane.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...