Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

he is such a good guy... didnt think he would still remember me

told him the issue and he did say the problem I have is one that could occur due to valves.. although he did say that valve problems are pretty rare

he also said he had a method of determining whether it is actually the valves without opening the head!

so will def be getting the car looked over by him (not sure if i should tell PT though)

was going to call him tomorrow but he called me lol... was very impressed! should have just gone to him again lol

Edited by usmair

I might have misinterpreted him

i think he meant due to the cost involved in changing springs... it might be financially better to 'do' the head (if i wanted to) seeing as we're spending $ on labour regardless

I can understand this, a full reco'd head might be better value than doing just the springs on your head. Though you'd want to make sure it was a reputable company that supplied it.

Usually valve float occurs at a resonant point in the rev range meaning that the power falls away momentarily. You usually see the mixtures do weird things at that point as the exhaust valve stays open longer.

If your exhaust back pressure is high you will usually float the exhaust valve on a turbocharged car given the profiling of the inlet is similar to the exh.

Does the power stay on higher at lower boost levels?

Usually valve float occurs at a resonant point in the rev range meaning that the power falls away momentarily. You usually see the mixtures do weird things at that point as the exhaust valve stays open longer.

If your exhaust back pressure is high you will usually float the exhaust valve on a turbocharged car given the profiling of the inlet is similar to the exh.

Does the power stay on higher at lower boost levels?

Tuner said power isnt falling momentarily... it just starts to lose power consistently after 6300RPM... its not like it temporarily loses power then jumps back up :S

the back pressue shouldnt be an issue... its got big front pipes and a 3.5" exhaust

the power is staying similar thought! it made 317kw on 22 psi with a boost leak under the plenum from a gasket

what does that suggest?? (sorry complete noob here)

he didnt mention anything about knocking... just seems to be stuck at 320kw

Which makes it sound more like a flow issue, and not exhaust side as that tends to send temps up and hence detonate.

Which leaves valves, intake, leaks??, turbo, cam timing etc.

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power"

Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret.

Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

"peak power right now is at 6300... car just starts struggling to breath and loses power"

Sounds like an exact thing i had.. Drop a set of Tomei TypeB 9.15mm in. Ignore what everyone says about running standard cams and try again and you won't live to regret.

Everyone is always talking highly of Unigroup but i find the car's he tunes runs quite low power and they are only in RWD/2WD? Too safe of a tune perhaps? Who knows...

can you please provide further details of your situation?? even the tuner said standard cams are perfect for -9s

yeh Yavuz only has a 2 wheel dyno so readings are in RWD... he does tune them to last so they might be slightly lower in power perhaps...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...