Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok

time has come

i need a new clutch because my current one has put immense pressure on my left knee for a year now

and i have constant knee pain :closedeyes:

i currently have a xtreme single button 5 puc push button clutch

"highly resistant to the most agressive clutch use and sustained high temperatures."

thats a exerpt from the clutch ad

which is ******** because it takes 2 seconds for the POS to burn up and start shuddering so its finished

so what are some good clutchs that wont burn my bank or destroy whats left of my knee cartilage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/
Share on other sites

10" NPC they come in a ceramic or oganic variety and wont kill the bank

$650 for the ceramic (usually)

i would have to call for an organic price will double check price for ceramic also

what would be ok for like normal use but isnt to soft?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6188282
Share on other sites

what would be ok for like normal use but isnt to soft?

I've gotten a full face organic from Madaz and its perfect for daily driving. You'll notice that switching from a stuffed clutch to a new one there will be extra pressure but there are a couple things you can do to help this, namely get a nismo slave cylinder, braided clutch line and a clutch pedal brace. The nismo slave will make it easier to push down on, and the line and brace will make the action more precise (optional really)...

+1 to Madaz's clutches - excellent price and great product - Mines good for up to 300kw...

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6188297
Share on other sites

+1 for npc and all the extra nismo bits that dohmar speaks of. We've had this discussion many times before and it always comes back to 2 options. Spend the money on a coppermix for an excellent clutch or spend less than half that amount for a locally built product with a rep to match the coppermix.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6188387
Share on other sites

10" NPC they come in a ceramic or oganic variety and wont kill the bank

$650 for the ceramic (usually)

i would have to call for an organic price will double check price for ceramic also

I too vouch for the NPC. I have an organic 10" one behind a SR20 and was told the clutch was good for 400hp, drives very nice and has a good pedal feel. In the next few weeks I should know how well it handles close to 400hp too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6188881
Share on other sites

I too have been NPC'd by Steve , no idea how it works till next week. had to find another mechanic besides the local ones (muppets) but the day after the clutch the car is being dumped on the dyno so the light flywheel would be a bonus.. the curent one(not NPC) is getting touchy, and slips a bit on hard boost in 3rd

, not worried about too stiff, your soft if you cant use a hi pressure clutch in traffic in a nissan , try old skool hi pressure clutches with no hydraulic help now thats a workout in traffic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6189396
Share on other sites

I also have a NPC clutch from Madaz, been in the car for about 15 months being daily driven and it hasn't missed a beat. ever.

Its a ceramic one, not sure if its 9.5 or 10 though, can't remember lol.

edit: while I'm here, I'll need another one shortly for my new R32, needs to be able to hold 260rwkw on a RB20, and needs to be RB20 gearbox friendly.... lol

I dont need it yet, but if you could chuck me a ballpark that would be good Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6189921
Share on other sites

I have been using a clutch I bought off ebay for almost 2.5 years now. Car has made close to 300 rwkw and done 4 track days. Clutch is still going all strong. I paid something like $300 delivered. Below is a link for something similar. Get the Stage 4 clutch and it feels no different to a stock clutch.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/F1-RACING-6-PUCK-CERAMIC-MIBA-STAGE-3-CLUTCH-DISC-JDM-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R31-R32-R33-/160707735886?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256aed714e

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6189982
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

had isssues with the npc clutch, but a quick call to NPC sorted it out , the dowel pins are made extremely tight when combined with NPC lightweight flywheel. and needed a light tap to clear pins they make them so the ends are tight but fit perfect on the bolt up(angled a tiny bit almost)

tested on my nismo flywheel fit easy as no fuss

ended up on dyno with 189.7kw @10psi with quick tune and shagged x force cat blocking flow , could easy pass 200kw with new cat and more dyno time on factory pump and injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388238-clutches/#findComment-6202066
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...