Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just pickd up a Mazda6 for the missus and the dealers detailer was obviously a monkey, I am no pro by any means but I do have a reasonable eye and the swirls/scratches etc are pretty obvious.

I was going to grab this today

http://www.meguiars.com.au/products/kits/paint-restoration-kit/

and have a go and see what I could do. I don't have an orbital fyi so this would be by hand.

Anyone tried that kit?

The car mainly suffers from obvious swirls and light scratches everywhere as it looks like it's been washed with an unwashed car wash brush. Car is "Stormy Blue" whic is a very dark black/blue colour. Blue really comes out in the sun. as do the swirls and scratches.

For the money, K's and mechanical condition though we could not pass it up.

As I understand it, I need to give ita good wash to remove loose dirt, grease etc, clay it, wash it again, get busy with the cutting compound during a decent polish and then give it a wax to seal it up. Looks like that kit would allow me to do all of that and it comes in around $60

I also noticed that on the silver interior plastics on the steering wheel there appears to be soem stains of some sort, what can I use to remove those?

Cheers

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388276-mequires-paint-restoration-kit/
Share on other sites

Hi Dan.

If it's just been polished the it should not have to many containments on it!.

The marks not to bad, try clean, wax/grease remove etc and light/cut polish see how it comes up.

maybe all it needs.

guessing this stuff you have already.

The basic car wash I have is a wash and wax so will need some straight wash and would like to get some new polishing clothes and products too. I'll have a browse through supercheap and see what I come up with as I'd like to do my daily as well.

If you're planning on getting a whole bunch of new stuff (wash solution and cloths) then why not go straight to good stuff from somewhere like FI or waxit?

But otherwise that meguiars kit seems like pretty good value for money, but I dont think hand polishing would get rid of too many swirls unfortunately.

I didn't end up buying that kit as it only included small version of each product. Bought the the big bottle of the ultimate compound (the cutter) maguires applicator pads and microfibre towels and just a basic kitten polish.

The car had SO many scratches, I finished polishing it at 12 last night after starting around midday. The Maguires compound was no where near strong enough (The car has definitely spent its life being washed once a week through a brush style auto wash or something) I ended up going to a mates place (panel beater) and using his buffer with a panel beater level quality compound to cut out the scratches then used the Maguires to clear the finer scratches and swirls, then washed it or a second time that day, dried it and polished it.

Looks a lot nicer now but took a bloody long time

I hate seeing people washing cars at car washes in either brush style auto washes or using the foaming brushes in the bays....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...